Jump to content
SAU Community

R35 @ Sprint Bathurst

LSX-438

By LSX-438,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

tk80 Proficient

tk80

Posted
Posted

agreed....very impressive time.

that's with steven richards driving. heard richards had miles in the passenger seat and did a 2:19 before pulling into the pits and kicking miles out. He then took 2 or 3 laps to put it into the 15's.

the moral of this story for me is to spend more $$$ on seat time than on mods for the car. I believe Miles himself was lapping in the 20's so there is clearly massive time to be gained with the aid of professional tuition.

jonosx Apprentice

jonosx

Posted
Posted (edited)

agreed....very impressive time.

that's with steven richards driving. heard richards had miles in the passenger seat and did a 2:19 before pulling into the pits and kicking miles out. He then took 2 or 3 laps to put it into the 15's.

the moral of this story for me is to spend more $$$ on seat time than on mods for the car. I believe Miles himself was lapping in the 20's so there is clearly massive time to be gained with the aid of professional tuition.

Ummmm...NO. Dont know where your getting your info from but you are waaaay off. I do the suspension setup on the car and was there so i know what happened

Steve only drove the car once on thursday (1 flying lap) and once on friday (2 flying laps). Best time he did was a 2:17 with Miles in the car and leaving plenty in reserve.

Miles had already done a 17 before Richards drove the car on friday after we tweaked the shock and swaybar settings.

Miles was definitely in the car for the 2:16's he did on saturday and the 2:15 which he set on sunday. There is a video on another thread with this lap.

As for the brakes..it still needs more. Even with the water spray they were still getting long after 2 flying laps.

Congrats to Miles and CRD for building a bullet proof car and psoting such a good time. It was only beaten by three cars, all full GT3 spec race cars.

Miles car was actually driven back to Sydney on sunday after the truck that was supposed to take it didnt show!!

Edited by jonosx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...