Jump to content
SAU Community

R35 @ Sprint Bathurst

LSX-438

By LSX-438,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

tk80 Proficient

tk80

Posted
Posted

agreed....very impressive time.

that's with steven richards driving. heard richards had miles in the passenger seat and did a 2:19 before pulling into the pits and kicking miles out. He then took 2 or 3 laps to put it into the 15's.

the moral of this story for me is to spend more $$$ on seat time than on mods for the car. I believe Miles himself was lapping in the 20's so there is clearly massive time to be gained with the aid of professional tuition.

jonosx Apprentice

jonosx

Posted
Posted (edited)

agreed....very impressive time.

that's with steven richards driving. heard richards had miles in the passenger seat and did a 2:19 before pulling into the pits and kicking miles out. He then took 2 or 3 laps to put it into the 15's.

the moral of this story for me is to spend more $$$ on seat time than on mods for the car. I believe Miles himself was lapping in the 20's so there is clearly massive time to be gained with the aid of professional tuition.

Ummmm...NO. Dont know where your getting your info from but you are waaaay off. I do the suspension setup on the car and was there so i know what happened

Steve only drove the car once on thursday (1 flying lap) and once on friday (2 flying laps). Best time he did was a 2:17 with Miles in the car and leaving plenty in reserve.

Miles had already done a 17 before Richards drove the car on friday after we tweaked the shock and swaybar settings.

Miles was definitely in the car for the 2:16's he did on saturday and the 2:15 which he set on sunday. There is a video on another thread with this lap.

As for the brakes..it still needs more. Even with the water spray they were still getting long after 2 flying laps.

Congrats to Miles and CRD for building a bullet proof car and psoting such a good time. It was only beaten by three cars, all full GT3 spec race cars.

Miles car was actually driven back to Sydney on sunday after the truck that was supposed to take it didnt show!!

Edited by jonosx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • r32-25t
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...