Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas

im currently building a drift car

DSC_1915.jpg

using parts off this car...

DSC_1651.jpg

now ive run into a little issue the motor and gear box i have is an rb20det gtst and the chassis that its going into is a gtst4...now the drive shaft attachment (on the diff) is different from the gtst to the gtst4

i cant swap with diff coz they are bolted to the cross member different ....

here is what im talking about

DSC_1927.jpg

DSC_1926.jpg

ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382885-gtst4-diff-question/
Share on other sites

Centre punch the nut and pinion so you know where they line up, get rattle gun, unrattle, pull off flange and put teh gts-t flange on, rattle back up so the punch mark is only just past the pinion mark and you should be right. That is the cheaters way as you loosen off the bearing preload but for a drift car you should be right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
    • I could see someone trying this to save money on oil changes.
×
×
  • Create New...