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Good evening everyone My name Is Rob so instead of typing Gts4RB30 Just use Rob.

Tomorrow i start an in depth guide to building an "rb30det" as from what i have seen and read, there are just a few little things that are missing that are very important.

Albeit that one of the members on here as done a very good job and a very well thought out guide it is still missing vital information that is needed before you walk into a workshop and say i want this whats it going to cost and can i short cut this and that. Yes some people on here have done things there own way and have been successful, what i am going to be writing has nothing to do with their builds nor put them down. it will be, for all intensive purposes,a "guide" or "form" of information. Some of it will be shortened as it has been covered MANY times and some will go into depth as to how and why things need to be done. I do ask however that people with professional experience and people with in depth knowledge also please interject with your information as i feel the more the better.

IDIOTS please refrain from being yourselves and shooting your mouths off this is not a political discussion or bitch fest so leave it as they say "at the door".

Moderators if there is any issues with this topic i ask that you communicate with me via pm as any issues with me being "OP" vs moderators i wish to keep personal and professional.

The information contained in this guide will also come from other workshops as well, however in saying that if you are a company director, manager, head mechanic and do not wish to be mentioned once again please contact me via pm.

So before i get started, thank you for your information, help and support.

The engine being built has the following going into it.

1992 R32 GTS25 Rb25e head

  • upgraded valve springs
  • tomei poncams
  • full head service.

1987 VL Commodore Auto RB30e Engine - (9.0:1 Compression Ratio)

  • bore (maybe)
  • hone
  • balance
  • standard rods
  • standard pistons
  • acl racing bearings both big and main
  • hastings rings
  • Nitto oil pump with crank collar
  • Drill and tap new tensioner pully
  • new welsh plugs
  • New water pump
  • AWD Adapter plate and pickup.

Tonight i will finish it here as i am tired will edit this tomorrow with more information.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382930-rb2530-build-tips/
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What sort of turbo/psi/power you looking at with this?

I'm all for building things right, but isn't a nitto pump overkill for the stock internals...

spending money in the right places can never be over kill. as long as you have the right supporting hardware you can be sure to maintain comfort and trust in pushing your equipment to the edge and for it to be able to give to you what you ask. with the rb a well knowen engine for destroying oil pump it's only fair that i use one that will be able to do the job right the first time!

All you are saying though has been covered 11ty times.....head work....300,000 threads.

Bottom end build

500,000 threads

Cams for RB- 200,000 threads

the only Rb30 specific thing needed is VCT oil feed...which you aren't using

spending money in the right places can never be over kill. as long as you have the right supporting hardware you can be sure to maintain comfort and trust in pushing your equipment to the edge and for it to be able to give to you what you ask. with the rb a well knowen engine for destroying oil pump it's only fair that i use one that will be able to do the job right the first time!

like i said, all for spending money in the right places and doing things right,

interested to see what you will be doing that people will be able to take to their builder.

Hundreds of RB30s have been built from bargain basement stockers like yours and mine to over 1000hp and sub 8 second quarters. If you have some remarkable new insight that has escaped all these people spit it out now - don't keep us in suspense.

BTW its ok to use stock crank and rods but you should get new, better rod bolts.

I should start a thread about my VCT feed and super dooper remotely adjustable over engineered side feed restricter that takes 15 minutes to change the restrictor size in the RB30 section, oh wait, its all in there all I need to do is SEARCH, I may not find it straight away, but Im sure if I put my time in Ill find it.

I wasnt reinventing the wheel you know, its all been done before..

Whats your engineering dilemma, I spent days reading through all that info myself to get ideas when I got my motor built.

Sarcasm sits well with me.

On topic, go to builder and say I want ???kw or a reliable motor that will survive some abuse at track/drags, then ask another, see what they say, make a informed desicion about what you want, what you have researched and then post up saying, "hey guys, whats this set up look like"

From my experience your post sounds like "tell me stuff because ICNBFed searching", It took me a couple of weekends to read the 30 thread, well worth it IMO.

On here all you will get is a heap of points of view with about 10% being usefull, sorry but Im one of the 90% of IDIOTS.

I should start a thread about my VCT feed and super dooper remotely adjustable over engineered side feed restricter that takes 15 minutes to change the restrictor size in the RB30 section, oh wait, its all in there all I need to do is SEARCH, I may not find it straight away, but Im sure if I put my time in Ill find it.

I wasnt reinventing the wheel you know, its all been done before..

Whats your engineering dilemma, I spent days reading through all that info myself to get ideas when I got my motor built.

Sarcasm sits well with me.

On topic, go to builder and say I want ???kw or a reliable motor that will survive some abuse at track/drags, then ask another, see what they say, make a informed desicion about what you want, what you have researched and then post up saying, "hey guys, whats this set up look like"

From my experience your post sounds like "tell me stuff because ICNBFed searching", It took me a couple of weekends to read the 30 thread, well worth it IMO.

On here all you will get is a heap of points of view with about 10% being usefull, sorry but Im one of the 90% of IDIOTS.

CLEARLY.

i don't need to search for information i have what i believe to be most of it, what i'm talking about is the more refined things that i have yet to find and read.

I'm not trying to "reinvent the wheel" i'm just putting smoother rubber on it. it's more so a guide that will help people who don't know, do more at home and be able to go to the machinist and engine builders and KNOW what they want done with out all the dilemma of not know about the smaller refined issue like decking, cr, acid bathing and tolerances etc etc. what kind of knowledge and information did some of us know 5, 10 ,15 yrs ago that we would of like to of known today.

All this info, is already here in the Forum is what we're saying.

who gives a flying f**k about acid bathing a block?...it gets done if it needs to or if the owner wants it...nothing to do with building a dirty 30

your guide sounds like engine building 101......in which those who want to build an engine themselves should already know, and those who want a workshop to do it wont care how an engine is torque plate honed, so long as when they get the motor back it goes broom broom and does skids.

There is already an excellent guide buy one of our resident engine builders on what all the processes are.

Ive done one for the NA guys

You haven't searched too hard now have you???

OP: Good start, but as you can see, there isnt much that isnt covered on how to do this. By all means if you have some breakthrough in how to do it I'd suggest you do a new thread stating exactly what the new breakthrough is rather than a long thread as we have those already.

Dont be put off by some of the comments in here :)

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