Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i got my car back from tuners with a coolant leak..

I have replaced all water hoses with new silicon hoses and checked everything..

Filled up my car this arvo with fresh Nulon, After probably 3 litres goes in it starts leaking from what i can see is down off the starter motor, and down off the gearbox.

Does anyone have any idea of what it could be. Im leaning towards heater issues in the dash but i dont have wet carpet,...

Thanks Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382938-coolant-leak/
Share on other sites

Theres a little turbo cooler line at the very back on the engine, behind the rocker covers....right down the back (for an rb25det) may be the same for your 32. Check that with a mirror after a run.

Edited by Gouch12345
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382938-coolant-leak/#findComment-6108201
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

the hard line feed to the turbo?

That hard line wont be leaking, that line starts from the inlet manifold, on the inlet side there is a 90 degree rubber hose that goes around the back corner of the head, its an absolute bitch to replace the rubber hose, it was easier for me to connect a hose to the inlet manifold and then run rubber hose to where you have taken the pic and join back to the hard line there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382938-coolant-leak/#findComment-6176360
Share on other sites

ok, my fix would still be the same, trace it back to where the rubber hose on the other end joins on the inlet manifold and run rubber hose around the back to some where in your picture, cut the hard line there and slip the rubber hose over it, will do just as good job for 1/10th the headaches

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382938-coolant-leak/#findComment-6176371
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...