Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't even notice this light wasn't working until I tried to do an idle speed adjustment this morning (after cleaning the TB over the weekend).

According to the G35 user manual the 'service engine soon' light should come on for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition. mine doesn't... Can anyone else confirm this should happen?

I ran through the idle adjustment procedure blindly and it seemed to work, so I am guessing it is just the light that isn't working.. possibly been disconnected for some strange reason. Will have to investigate when I get the time.

Car runs great otherwise, so I hope it hasn't been disconnected by a previous owner to hide a fault.

On checking the G35 FSM, it is an LED, so it can't be a 'blown bulb', and LED failures are fairly rare.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/
Share on other sites

Not 100% sure with the V35 but on the M35, if you cut the MIL wire from the ecu the car goes into limp mode. Its fairly easy to change the dash over and try it but youre too far away to come and borrow my spare. >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6108745
Share on other sites

Thanks, I'm in Townsville, so a bit too far to call in and borrow a spare.. thanks for the offer though!

according to the FSM, the MIL LED is controlled by the 'unified meter control unit' built into the speedo cluster which communicates with the ECU via the CAN system.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6108754
Share on other sites

Well, I dismantled the speedo cluster as far as I could this afternoon. The LED is surface mounted on the PCB, and to get to it you need to remove the gauge needles. I wasn't brave enough to do that, so I just put it all back together.

Have found other other weird thing after cleaning the throttle body over the weekend, when starting the car from cold, it will idle high, even after fully warming up (idles at around 1k rpm), and the throttle is very sensitive, after the engine warms up, if you shut it down, wait about 10 sec and start it again, it idles normally at around 700rpm and the throttle response is normal. I have run through the accel pedal closed position setup, throttle closed position setup and idle air flow set procedure, but I am still getting the same thing from a cold start.

The up side is the car is much easier to accelerate from a standing start (when idling normal) than it was before the clean, it used to be a fine line between stalling or reving too much when launching in 1st, now it is much easier.

Tried to order an Blazt II OBD cable today, but it seems their webpage is down.

Is there any way to check the ECU codes without a code reader?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6111252
Share on other sites

thanks, I guess without a working MIL, I am still out of luck.

Haha, oops sorry, I forgot what the original problem was. My favourite mechanic shop will check/clear my codes for free, so maybe ask around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6114680
Share on other sites

Found Conceptzperformance sells the Blazt OBD2 cables, just ordered one today, so that should allow me to read any codes and clear them if necessary.

Will be useful for our J31 Maxima too.

I finally got the idle adjustement procedure to run, I thought it had run earlier, but after allowing the car to cool down and starting it again, the idle was high again.

Apparently running this procedure manually is quite difficult even with a working MIL, timing is critical, I guess I just fluked it today.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6114740
Share on other sites

Found Conceptzperformance sells the Blazt OBD2 cables, just ordered one today, so that should allow me to read any codes and clear them if necessary.

Will be useful for our J31 Maxima too.

I finally got the idle adjustement procedure to run, I thought it had run earlier, but after allowing the car to cool down and starting it again, the idle was high again.

Apparently running this procedure manually is quite difficult even with a working MIL, timing is critical, I guess I just fluked it today.

I find with my car, (which has the MIL up constantly due to an Emanage) I cant do a idle learn because it reverts back to 900 revs when I restart it. Im guessing you have the same issue. Can you get Nissan or someone with an obd2 reader that works to read the codes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6116505
Share on other sites

I was thinking of taking it to Nissan, but I am guessing they will charge for it. They charge to program a new key and that is about the same amount of work.

Now that I have the idle correct, there isn't anything else I am worried about, so I will just wait until the Blazt cable arrives and check for codes then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382963-mil-not-working/#findComment-6116529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...