Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 gtst and while im accelerating with my foot to the floor, when i hit about 4 or 5 thousand rpm i get a massive pop comming through the exhaust. its not that loud but while it does the single pop the car stopped accelerating for that brief second and then screams the rest of the way to red line.

im worried if this is a bad thing or if it can do any damage at all.

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38298-popping-exhaust-while-accelerating/
Share on other sites

Sounds like fuel cut from the boost limiter in the stock CPU.

If your not running more then 9 or 10 psi or do have a boost cut defender then it would be the fuel supply not keeping up with demand as you come on boost hard.

Another cause is old or faulty plugs, or wrong plug gap. Take em out and inspect the colour and condition of the core and electrode.

The reason why i would think it is not plugs initially, is the fact that it happens only at 5-6 grand and then cleans up to the red line.

When my plugs were bad it broke down all the way to the red line when ever under high boost load.

yes i mean that ...kind off like when its hitting fuel cut , u will see a blast of black smoke during that pop....

you will know if its pinging mate , just listen for a ratteling sound coming from the valve train ... like a clangy sound , that means its realy lean and its pre detoating due too great heat in the combustion chamber, if its doing this STOP! straight away or youll have melted pistons in no time ......

well if u can see no puff of smoke i think u might be leaning out mate ... how much boost are you running and do u have a fuel cut defender or anything else modified too your computer system

"Wont damage the car man just the DAM engine ... just imagine your seeing your girlfreind ***ing another bloke infront of you , thats how bad the engine is hurting when your leaning it out ....."

Um yeah......... You could put it that way I suppose. LOL

ummm ive actually knoticed my poppin..but its only when i like rev it to say 5-6000rpm in first gear and wen i knock it down to 2nd, it makes the pop noise..

is my problem the same as letemlaf ?

its mainly the rich fuel curve in the fuel map after boosting hard you back of str8 away and there will be excess fuel in the exhaust and combustion chamber and when u come back on hard you are just burning alot more fuel at that moment thats why u get a wicked pop and maby even a shoot of flame if u have a hi flow cat or better yet non at all ..

it sounds like your coil packs are getting tired, mine does the same thing. check plugs first - i'd put new plugs in people recommend gapping them to 0.8. if you've done that and it's still missing i'd say coil packs.

it sounds like your coil packs are getting tired, mine does the same thing.  check plugs first - i'd put new plugs in people recommend gapping them to 0.8.  if you've done that and it's still missing i'd say coil packs.

yes it would be this man but if it was popping and farting all the way up the load range not just at 5-6k ........ but yes check the GAP .8 of a mill is the way too go .....but i realy do recomend a fuel pressure check and fuel flow check ...

yeh any mechanic with the device , just say i think my fuel pump may be on its way out and need a check up for flow and pressure , would be better on a dyno , not much if its just a check without a dyno about 30 bucks but if u wanna check up on the dyno well im not sure there i say around 100 .... ? all depends on the leniency off the mechanic

im gonna take the spark plugs out and check them tomorrow morning,

at the back of the black cover theres some kind of sensor or something.

is that hard to take off and replace or is there anything else that might be a ittle bit tricky that i need to watch out for?

then ill get the fuel flow tested

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...