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Wats up guys?

Does anyone know how to stop or at least reduce the level of boot vibration after pooting a sub in the boot? The boot vibrates alot when the bass is put up and its sort of embarrasing to drive with the bass up

Has anyone else encountered this issue?

Cheers.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382996-r34-boot-vibration/
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is it school holidays already ? (POOTING is something called a LADY FART in USA)

dynamat or a similar product on the underside , back of rego plate too. and most likely a lot of other spots too.

turn the bass boost down to 0 on the amp and gains down to 3/4 tops

turn down the bass on the deck as well

can you hear the bass in the car or the rattles first ?

Oh wow, I cannot beleive i spelt putting wrong LOL yehh i was watching a pooting prank video, maybe thats why haha

Haha cheers for the reply, the rattles inside the car are negligible, its outside that the boot and the number plate rattle which is kinda embarrasing when I'm driving around.

If i put bit of pressure on the boot and ignore the number plate the bass sounds really really clean, thats what i want.

I've heard about dynamat but it's pretty dear, and if i buy it i wanna know if it will definitely do the job, and whether there are any installers out there.(Cos i dont wanna screw it up)

Have you heard the difference after dynamat was installed? Is it worth it?

you can buy cheap stuff and do it twice , or pay a little more now and be done with it

any name brand sound deadener will work, dynamat has one just for rego plates. and some lightweight stuff as well

have I heard it, hmmmm never ... yes.. over the 20+ years in car audio

and some of my car has 3 layers in it ..lol nope never heard of how it sounds..lol

you can listen to a little tiny iphone speaker in the console of my car at 100kph and I have a large bore non stock muffler setup , does that help you ?

its not hard to install , just prep the area really good or it wont stick,and a roller helps a bunch.

If i put bit of pressure on the boot and ignore the number plate the bass sounds really really clean, thats what i want.

Have you heard the difference after dynamat was installed? Is it worth it?

Ishan what size sub have you got installed? I'm currently looking at an audio setup for my R34 GTT but I wasn't 100% sure if I should go 10" or 12", however, I am leaning more towards the 10" as I'm after good quality sound without blasting the shit out of fellow commuters.

I've installed Dynamat in both my old R32 & now my R34 & I can honestly say it's worth every penny just make sure it's installed correctly... good prep & really sore thumbs. Next time I'm definitely gonna invest in a roller!

:cheers:

a 10 or 12 will shake the car to death , there isnt much difference in most cases. I prefer a 10" they hit faster and smoother in the right box but the market here prefers the 12"

if done right you can hide a 10 easy in the boot with good sound , dont overlook thin models either.

a 10 or 12 will shake the car to death , there isnt much difference in most cases. I prefer a 10" they hit faster and smoother in the right box but the market here prefers the 12"

if done right you can hide a 10 easy in the boot with good sound , dont overlook thin models either.

Thanks for the advice Troy since I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff. Once I've saved up my pennies (beginning of the new year if not before... c'mon last 2yrs tax retuns!) I'll be posting up the possible setups I'm looking at spending it all on.

Hopefully guys like yourself can give me some feedback on it all. :thumbsup:

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Personally, instead of adding kilos of extra weight (cause the sub is heavy enough as it is!) and heaps of gooey insulation that is near impossible to remove later, I prefer to find out what is rattling and try to dampen it directly.

The two biggest culprits I found on my R33 way back when I put my sub in was:

*The bootlock. Mainly, the metal sheet thing that secures the bootlock in the bootlid. It's a quarter-turn to remove the metal locking piece and pop the bootlock out. Suffice to say, its flimsy and acts like a ruler being "twanged" on the side of a desk. (you know the move!) Cover it or wedge some foam between it and the bootskin.

*The numberplate. Surprisingly loud, but fixed either temporarily with a piece of cardboard shoved behind it, or permanently by purchasing some very thin rubber sheeting (from a craft store or Clark Rubber) and cutting it out to the size of your plate, and gluing it to the back of it. Remount it and retest.

There was a *little* noise from the tailgate part of the boot, behind the boot lining between the two tail-lights. I put a little bit of Dynamat there, cut to shape, and just so the boot trim and the boot metal parts didn't have room to hit each other. It made for a perfect fit so both pieces rested against each other.

My method was to open the boot, and remove the carpet and trim, then using the bottom of your hand (clenched) to bang random parts of the boot and bootlid to see what rattled. Been perfect ever since!

If you want ultimate insulation and better sub efficiency, go ahead and cover everything imaginable with Dynamat. =-]

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I have been having the same boot vibration problemsin my r34. In attempt to solve the problem I took off the number plate and placedrubber washers about 3mm thick under the number plate screws. This hassignificantly reduced the rattle coming from my boot and it was very cheap andeasy solution.

dont use cardboard, or clark rubber chunks, rubber is heavier then dynamat and must be glued perm to stay put.

carboard is like a sponge and water will crust it till your car rusts. its like using toothpaste for bog ? just because you can doesnt mean you should

you can get lightweight dynamat, ffs people who gut the deadner and drive on the street are tards, unless your car is a full tilt race car its not worth ditching it, not even for a few track days, save a few kilos , when you could just take a big dump to shed that much weight ?

you drive on the street , speed limited extreme , why do you care if you have 5 kilos of dynamat in your car ? your better off making a lighter sub box or no sub or amp

its like driving a rattle shite box versus a rolls royce noise wise. and with deadner you can enjoy the drive without the creaks and groans even with no stereo on. and it keeps a bit of the heat out of the cabin too.

keep your race cars stereo free and gutted and your street cars with deadner , even a little goes a long way in the sound quality !!! all skyline doors , and a bit in the boot ,simple, the skyline doors or any frameless coupe doors always seem flimsy until you put on some dynamat

dont use cardboard, or clark rubber chunks, rubber is heavier then dynamat and must be glued perm to stay put.

carboard is like a sponge and water will crust it till your car rusts. its like using toothpaste for bog ? just because you can doesnt mean you should

you can get lightweight dynamat, ffs people who gut the deadner and drive on the street are tards, unless your car is a full tilt race car its not worth ditching it, not even for a few track days, save a few kilos , when you could just take a big dump to shed that much weight ?

you drive on the street , speed limited extreme , why do you care if you have 5 kilos of dynamat in your car ? your better off making a lighter sub box or no sub or amp

its like driving a rattle shite box versus a rolls royce noise wise. and with deadner you can enjoy the drive without the creaks and groans even with no stereo on. and it keeps a bit of the heat out of the cabin too.

keep your race cars stereo free and gutted and your street cars with deadner , even a little goes a long way in the sound quality !!! all skyline doors , and a bit in the boot ,simple, the skyline doors or any frameless coupe doors always seem flimsy until you put on some dynamat

:cheers: to that mate :worship:

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