Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok question.

With the vq25det having an ecu that is in my opinion f#cking anoying as there is not many tuning opertunities with the standard ecu does the same happen in the vq35de's? Are their ecus the same as the 25"s where it will throw into limp mode if it doesnt like something. Reason for my question is im weighting up pulling out the 25 and replacing with a 30/35. let me know your thoughts or experience.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383076-vq25det-vs-vq35de/
Share on other sites

The VQ30det is crap as there is no variable cams, you will really notice the soggy response compared to the 2.5 or the 3.5.

Best would be a built VQ35 which would set you back a bit but the parts are available at least.

Or if you want a stock motor to drop in, leave the VQ25det, its the strongest of the bunch if you plan to mod.

With all these options you will have the same ecu issues. There is plenty of work happening on the ecu side and hopefully one day there will be an aftermarket plugin option but until then whats wrong with the Emanage Ultimate? I will try to do a wiring chart when I rip mine out for those of you that cant make it down to Melbourne if you like, that way you only need to find a competant tuner to tweak the map.

ECU is different. More like 350Z/R35

But problem is, you have to make it talk to the transmission as well.

Its been said. Just buy one if thats what you want. Money wise, it just doesn't make sense doing a conversion. (although I am aware that the same thing could be said about mewhistling.gif)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...