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Mods For My R33, Upgrades Help Plz

mikeyR33-T

By mikeyR33-T,
in South Australia

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mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

Hi, I have owned my skyline for only a few months, it is basically stock R33 turbo Auto S1, coupe. FMIC stock turbo, 3inch turb bk exhaust, hi flow. r32 actuator, K&N thats about it.

I will be coming into a few bucks soon roughly 500-900$ and want to know what would be the BEST thing to buy or upgrade for this car to allow it some more power and response? it runs nice stock but I need some more kick and power down lower, Ive been told numerous things like upgrade fuel pump, upgrade this and that, or a Nistune or new ECU, just its all new to me, so I want something that will be good for the car long term, give it added power and response, but ALSO last and make a difference long term and for abit more fun when I take her out! I was thinking about getting a HICAS bar so I dont have HICAS, is it recommended... I do not drift but wouldnt mind a bit more control myself.

**I APPRECIATE ALL COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS - as I am newbie so be patient**

Regards MIKEY - reply or PM any suggestions or if you have items to sell to help?

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jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Standard upgrades at this point are:

* fuel pump

* suspension

* brakes

* aftermarket tuning

Fuel pump - as you still have the stock turbo, this probably doesn't need touching unless it's on the way out or you want some piece of mind. It will need to be done longer term. If it's still the original fuel pump its flow could be getting down.

You haven't really listed any suspension modifications other than HICAS. Be aware that a HICAS lock bar will not pass through regency, but can be engineered. For me, I like HICAS - when it works right (and usually it's just that the HICAS rack is old or the sensors mis-aligned or missing that you would ever have issues on the street). You should definitely investigate coilovers (be aware of the legalities here), camber kits, castor kits, swaybars etc to improve your handling.

A lot of people forget brakes. Generally better quality rotors (slotted, or slotted/dimpled) are a good start, along with a quality dot5.1 brake fluid and braided brake lines and a good quality brake pad. A lot of people skimp on their braking when they increase their power. For me, it's what I did first. Some people also like to fit a brake cylinder stopper. On my R34 I didn't feel much of a difference, but I'm told it can help more on the older R32/33.

With regards aftermarket tuning Nistune or PowerFC tends to be the best option for the R33. The R33 cannot be fitted with a nistune easily, unfortunately and requires a R32 or Z32 ECU.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Full service i.e every oil and fluid (brake fluid, engine oil, gearbox oil/fluid, diff oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid), spark plugs, better brake pads, boost tee to run 11psi, dyno run to see if your fuel is keeping up, and, um, that should be close to your budget.

Next thing would become familiar with the search button.

Drive safe

Shop Smart, Shop S Mart

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Double post.

So

After every power mod you should check to see if your fuel is keeping up with demand, otherwise budget in a new motor.

Also fill in some pers info with at least location so we know where your from.

Enjoy.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Double post.

So

After every power mod you should check to see if your fuel is keeping up with demand, otherwise budget in a new motor.

Also fill in some pers info with at least location so we know where your from.

Enjoy.

Hi, no need to be so full on, I prefer first hand responses, and I know what I want to do with the car, just need advice on parts, not added commentary LOL.

I have had a dyno but will get another, and probably upgrade the fuel pump/filter soon :) and go from there. I dont plan on changing auto anytime soon just want a few small mods for now to add abit of power and reliability and to make the car stronger. that is all, thanks again guys. and Im in SA adelaide.

HOSTILE Mentor

HOSTILE

Posted
Posted

Welcome Mikey.

Folks tend to get a little funny with these types of posts as they are asked very regularly by newbies. There are stacks of threads out there you could search that will answer your queries...will keep some of the lads off your back :thumbsup:

Anyhow, based on the information you have given (ie) stock auto, exhaust, hi flow turbo, front mount cooler and with a budget of around $500-900 you have a few options and in reality you probably need to do them all..

As mentioned above do a full service and replace any worn bushes, belts, hoses etc. This alone could blow the budget.

Personally I'd get an electronic boost controller (any jap brand is good) and a nistune or similar if you want a boost in performance.

You will probably need to do a fuel pump too... sooner rather than later.

Alternatively you could have a shift kit put in the auto to improve feel/lengevity.

But like I said you'll probably end up doing all of these at some point. Enjoy.

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

For $900 mate you are better of upgrading the brakes from the standard ones to the slotted rotors and some decent brake pads and no I am not talking about Bendix crap. There is a group buy thread in the main section for RDA rotors. I bought mine from that group buy about 3 years ago and still going strong, even though it has seen a few track days now. I remember paying $480 delivered for all 4 slotted rotors. GSL Rallysport sell the QFM A1RM brake pads for $238 delivered for all 4 corners. I personally use the Penrite Sin 600 brake fluid and highly recommend it to anyone, especially after the way it goes on the track. They are about $25-30 for 500mls, and I guess for a system flush and all changed you will be needing around 1L. So that all comes to roughly $780 and with the $120 left get a carton of beer and a few boys around, throw a barbie and it will all be done in no time for sure.

I won't be chasing big power just yet. Remember that with more power you will need better stopping power :D

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

sorry for that, try again but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

JDMKiD__/ⓞⓞ-33 Community Regular

JDMKiD__/ⓞⓞ-33

Posted
Posted

ooh the JDM kid is in foreign land :nyaanyaa:

sorry for that, try again but my issue is that when starting car for the first time in the day, it will kick over then idle very low for 5secs and die if i dnt give it some throttle to get it up to over 1000rpm..everytime i start it, it will start but very low idle and dies.. today at 11am i started it, im in Adelaide and it was maybe 15degrees, turned it over let it start then within 5 secs it died, then kicked it again and it took about 10 secs to idle right....<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">would this AAC cleaning fix this or is it the fuel pump, im thinking of replacing the stock one with a WALBRO? and maybe even fuel filter and oxy sensor :) thanks reply or PM if you have any ideas

check all your piping/hoses and make sure they are all secure/tight. i had a simliar problem and found out my recirculation pipe from dv was poo.

and for mods? get your turbo blades upgraded to steel blades (costed me $250) and run a boost tee and since your quite new to skylines and yours is an auto- slap on a dose pipe khuz. nothing better than sounding like a badass ninja and being a box magnet. will sound orgasmic with your fmic.:O

quick tip when you get it installed: slap your car into da capital D, pull up handbrake and plant your foot on the brake firmly with left foot. with your right foot accelerate about a quarter to half way and watch your boost go up (you wont be moving) until your at full psi brah, snap dat throttle (while your still braking off course) and listen to the sexiest, loudest, most female attracting noise your or anyone has ever heard in their life. Makes babies stop crying and will put a vl to shame.:D

and once you hav completed all of that get the plates [sU22222] and get laid. you'll have enuf dosh to keep em for around 2 years

SO!

approx-

$200-$300 for turbo

$50-$80 for tee if you DIY

$30 for dose pipe setup if you DIY

$510 for 2 years of plates

so will cost about $920 at most, but the benefits will be priceless ;)

feel free to send me a pm if you have any questions :cheers:

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the honest reply, after some thinking it over, I WILL be upgrading fuel pump, best i can find for the price range is Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump GENUINE Nissan S13 S14 S15 R32 ... and fuel filter as well, I ran a tank of UNITED 100 premium to help clean the fuel tank out as ppl have said its high octane with 10% ethanol for cleaning, so I will change the pump and filter soon as, then get the stock ECU tuned as best I can for now because I have changed a few things, car runs fine just has a mid range flat spot...

I really want to upgrade to HKS 2530 but I know i will have to do the injectors at minimum?? any advice is good thanks.

So much is going through my head about ECUs and injectors and all that :S

someone PM me for a decent chat 1 on 1??? plz

was also thinking of sourcing a decent turbo and putting it aside while ive got the cash, then do the car up bit by bit till its ready to put the turbo on and handle it :)

ADVICE!!!?

Standard upgrades at this point are:

* fuel pump

* suspension

* brakes

* aftermarket tuning

Fuel pump - as you still have the stock turbo, this probably doesn't need touching unless it's on the way out or you want some piece of mind. It will need to be done longer term. If it's still the original fuel pump its flow could be getting down.

You haven't really listed any suspension modifications other than HICAS. Be aware that a HICAS lock bar will not pass through regency, but can be engineered. For me, I like HICAS - when it works right (and usually it's just that the HICAS rack is old or the sensors mis-aligned or missing that you would ever have issues on the street). You should definitely investigate coilovers (be aware of the legalities here), camber kits, castor kits, swaybars etc to improve your handling.

A lot of people forget brakes. Generally better quality rotors (slotted, or slotted/dimpled) are a good start, along with a quality dot5.1 brake fluid and braided brake lines and a good quality brake pad. A lot of people skimp on their braking when they increase their power. For me, it's what I did first. Some people also like to fit a brake cylinder stopper. On my R34 I didn't feel much of a difference, but I'm told it can help more on the older R32/33.

With regards aftermarket tuning Nistune or PowerFC tends to be the best option for the R33. The R33 cannot be fitted with a nistune easily, unfortunately and requires a R32 or Z32 ECU.

skwiz Mentor

skwiz

Posted
Posted

*mental note, buy turbo car and buy [sU2222] plates*

Get a shift kit with your auto from MV Automatics.

Spark plugs, new engine oil, and fuel filter will round out your budget nicely.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

*mental note, buy turbo car and buy [sU2222] plates*

Get a shift kit with your auto from MV Automatics.

Spark plugs, new engine oil, and fuel filter will round out your budget nicely.

THANKS for all your comments, After alot of reading and brainstorming, first thing I need to do is get my car put on a dyno to check all the ratios and find out exactly whats not right for it to have a flat spot, it might be running a bit RICH, i will be speaking to MARTIN at willall as he seems to be the best XD, then I am ordering a new WALBRO pump and filter :) then I will be looking at getting ECU REMAP by TOSHI if the dyno looks good :) thats the first things just to make the car runs better, responsive and a bit quicker :) I will report back once I find out more, I will later on look at getting better pads, I have slotted rotors all round atm and the plugs and oil change was done like 2000km ago running on 4100 - that turbo stuff everyone suggested.

thanks

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