Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I Bought a set of tomie cams for the RB30DET but there was a mix up when the company i bought them off and I cant get onto them to recterfy the problem.

So I have a series 1RB25DET head which had a metal CAS on it. The cams I received look exactly the same (apart from lobe) and also the alignment key for the CAS. I believe they are series 2 cams as I heard the neo cams run shim n bucket.

What I want to know is will I have any problems installing these cams and plugging in a series 2cas?

I had a search on the forum and couldn't find what I was lookin for.

Thanks in advance

Adrian

THE-31

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383493-rb25det-cas-s1s2/
Share on other sites

Yeah the search bar isn't the greatest but, it's not only poncams I was looking for it's just if someone knew about std neo cams running in a s1head.

But think I've found out now I just have to swap the wires around when I run the neo CAS.

Thanks for your help with it all.

  • 8 years later...

hello guys,who has 100% answer,not the internet search one,about repining of CAS.I need to repin R33 Mitsubishi Cas to R34 Neo Hitachi Cas,i found several answers,so which one is the correct one?Most common answers are that R34 Hitachi Cas plug is the mirror type of Mitsubishi one,is it prooven?Alot guys write,that some CAS'es need trigger wires switched,while power and ground are same,can somebody confirm one or another?

ePnzj8d.png.224145526f5c0e13b50a72f9bc04675c.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...