Turbo Replacement Advice

[agentx]

Hi guys - I'm after a quick bit of advice from a few of you. I've got an r32 with a TR43 turbo on it that has died. The car's still driveable (wastegate disconnected) but obviously a bit risky to drive it, its just a bit noisy so I can afford to take a bit of risk and take it to a mechanic nearby. Now I've got two options:

Option 1: Take turbo off myself, bolt the second hand turbo I've purchased (r33) on and tow the car to a workshop to do the stuff needed (front pipe / water and oil lines etc) that I can't do myself due to a lack of parts/skill and get the stock dump welded on to the exhaust as it currently has custom work done which will need to be reversed.

Option 2: Take the parts and save on towing cost and drive the car to a mechanic to get it all done.

With the first option, I can save a bit on labour but end up spending a bit on towing as well as running the risk of stripping a bolt / running into other complications

With the second option, can I ask how much it costs to replace a turbo from tr43 to an r33 one (without the exhaust work) - I called up two workshops and got quoted 800 by one, and 350 by another (both labor only).

Thanks for your help =)

[Miguelone]

Keep ringing around till you find a price you like on labour, did they specify what labour in particular? Depends on other factors as well such as how familiar they are with doing such a job. Whatever quote you end up getting make sure you have something in writing beforehand, as that $350 could well become $1200 once you come to pick up the car Not saying it will of course just that you should be wary of some quotes

[agentx]

yea that seems to happen everytime I visit a workshop - I looked in the workshop recommendations section and rang a few places in the south east. Would prefer going somewhere close (I'm in Box Hill) - been to revzone before and ended up costing alot more than originally quoted so looking for somewhere else, racepace seems to be really good but their quote was a bit too much for my budget!

[xALmoN]

chasers at mitcham.

[W0rp3D]

isnt the tr43 a direct replacement for the standard turbo?

If so then you will need a new dump pipe gasket and T3 gasket and i would suggest new copper washers (the gaskets and the copper washers may be optional but you may as well do it) i believe there is a tutorial around here on how to do it.

I also understand that you dont have the know how or tools, doing this is the perfect way to get experience and for the quoted $800 you could get all the tools needed and have $400 change (probably more like $600 but i over estimated).

The only other thing you need is a kind sole from here with a little experience to guide you through it.

This is a moderate to easy job when done with a little guidance, well worth getting your hands dirty and a little experience.

Edited November 22, 2011 by W0rp3D

[paulr33]

there must be a dozen how to guides and threads

so if you want to do it yourself you can go nuts and just print out the guides

you will need some good tools though and some basic problem solving / mecahnical skills

check out the faqs / howto's and decide if its too hard or not

if you strip bolts etc you can get mobile guys to come out to fix it

it will cost you, but nothing is unfixable

[TJR32GTS-T]

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Hope this helps, it helped me heaps.

[W0rp3D]

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Hope this helps, it helped me heaps.

Lol, what about a 12 or 14mm spanner for the dump pipe bolts?

Also forget about all the 1/2 inch bullshit just get a 3/8 and 1/4 drive combination kinchrome socket set the 1/2 inch is too big for tight spots.

Edited November 22, 2011 by W0rp3D

[agentx]

I do have a decent enough selection of tools. Got the turbo today (stock r33 turbo) in very good nick - felt the bug so took a spanner to the car around 10pm, its 2am now and the turbo is off the car along with the exhaust till the CAT and my hands are full of bruises but really pleased with what ive got so far! planning to put it back together tomorrow and everything looks like it'll fall in place since the turbo came with dump pipe and oil/water lines etc. the only issue i see is the piping to the cooler and the intake, not sure how it'll get connected to the cooler pipe since the setup on the TR43 was different, and im guessing ill need the stock black rubber hose to connect my pod filter?

Quick couple of questions for you guys ...

1) will i be able to put the turbo in with the lines / dump connected from the top of the engine or will i need to take the dump / lines off first?

2)where can i source the banjo bolt for the water line the quickest - forgot to get it with the turbo

thanks for your help again, i'll be so stoked if im able to pull this off myself!

Edited November 22, 2011 by agentx

[TJR32GTS-T]

Lol, what about a 12 or 14mm spanner for the dump pipe bolts?

Also forget about all the 1/2 inch bullshit just get a 3/8 and 1/4 drive combination kinchrome socket set the 1/2 inch is too big for tight spots.

My dump pipe had 5x12mm nuts and one 13mm :s also I had just enough room to use my 1/2 inch breaker. Something smaller would have been easier tho,

As for the banjo bolts are u refuring to the ones on the turbo? I MIGHT have my old ones laying around. If u have the time and money I'd go braided lines tho.

Edit: just read it is for the water line, if I remember I will have alook after work, u may still need to replace the copper washer tho

Edited November 22, 2011 by TJR32GTS-T

[agentx]

I have the one on the turbo - need the one that goes to the block (think they're the same?). I have a braided oil line for the TR43, reckon I can use it on the stock 33 turbo? it would make life alot easier for me as its already connected to the block.

Also, is it worthwhile replacing the turbo to manifold gasket (metal) or can I reuse the one i have?

I'm going to a wrecker soon so I'll get the banjo bolt from them, and also the intake rubber pipe I will need to connect my pod filter... I'll also need to get the gaskets for turbo to exhaust (guessing an exhaust place would have them).

Thanks

[TJR32GTS-T]

Yeah I used a brass reducer with thread on either side one to match the thread on the turbo,and the other to match the braided line

[agentx]

I just compared and pretty sure the braided oil line i had made will fit the new turbo straight! good news!

I can't get the freakin bolt that was put in to block the water return why is it always ONE bolt that ruins your day!

[W0rp3D]

I have some old ones here, I changed mine to different ones when I put the 3540 on so I don't need them if toy want it, also have one of there copper lines, probably the one off the block (all of this is off a 25 I assume they are the same), if your going to use the old gaskets again get some permatex high temp silicone gasket maker and coat both sides just to be sure.

[agentx]

I should be fine (thanks though)... ive been looking around for 20 minutes now, any idea where I can find a picture of the water return on the block? I just need to make sure I'm working on the right one there aren't many around so pretty sure ive got the right one.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to strip the bolt and have to call the thread doctor tomorrow

[W0rp3D]

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-019&Category_Code=FTG

Should look like those.

[agentx]

yea nah i sourced the bolts today from the wrecker - just can't get the old bolt the mechanic used to block the water return from the block (old turbo was oil cooled only)

[W0rp3D]

They may have used some sort of sealant or loctite, either way it has to come out, as you said if it breaks call the thread doctor, he removed my broken exhaust manifold studs, he is good.

Its also good to see you doing it your self, its a lot cheaper and more satisfying, its also a good way of understanding what goes where and why.

[TJR32GTS-T]

From memory the water return is at the back of the engine? Can u confirm that warp3d?

Any chance u can get a breaker bar onto it?

And soak the bolt in wd40 or equivalent might loosen it up abit

[W0rp3D]

Soaking the bolt in wd may help, wont hurt tho, if your done for the night cover it in wd and let it soak over night.

I can't remember which way the water lines go in factory form coz I changed mine, the one on the back of the turbo goes to the block and the one at the front goes around the back of the head on mine, was easier that way and still works fine.