Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1992 R32 GTSt for sale,

5 Speed Manual

82000 Kilometres

Dark Metallic Blue

Full TRUST Body Kit (GTR Look Alike)

Large Front Mount Intercooler - Boost has not been touched (still running standard)

GReddy Turbo Timer

Pod Filter

ARC Blow-Off Valve

CUSCO Carbon Fibre Front Strut Brace

Full 3” Mandrel Bent Exhaust, High Flow Cat and TURBOSMART Muffler

Mags – R33 GTR 17x9 (Spare Set Standard Mags also available)

CD Player

Lowered KING Springs

Sports Steering Wheel

Climate Control

Power Steering, Mirrors and Windows

Alarm and Immobiliser

Always Serviced, Garaged

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38367-r32-wanted/#findComment-782023
Share on other sites

is this to modified $21k

http://www.directimported.com.au/orange32/pix.htm

R32

New rebuilt engine just run in

RB20det 307HP at wheels

GT25R turbo 440 HP

Hybrid bar plate cooler

GTR injectors

300zx airflow meter

HKS pod

500HP fuel pump

Cross drilled GTR type front discs

After market sway bars

Bilstein height adjustable suspension

Custom $5000 paint orange I believe this was the first 1 done black fleck bonnet Rear guards flared

No rear wing

$3000 MP3 stereo system sub amp etc splits

nizmo 300klm speedo

500HP direct clutch kit

Trust front bar new just fitted

$3000 enkie wheels 17"

full alarm system keyless entry ETC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38367-r32-wanted/#findComment-792807
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...