Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wasnt sure where to put this... this section seems to be full of the smartest blokes and highest traffic. Ime about to embark on what i know will be the more time consuming painful job you can do to a car... wiring it from scratch.

who here has done it and can give me some tips.

Do i use any of the factory nissan loom/fuse box or do i just start from scratch?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383674-full-car-rewiring/
Share on other sites

Fag. Lol.

Hmm ok, wipers, yes i can understand. Electric windows adds weight uleh! But they never came with manual windows so your kinda stuck..

The wiring for power windows is a little complex as it usually routes all over the place to the necessary relays. Usually there's a thermal overload for them somewhere.

Have you ripped out things like all the cruise wiring, abs, radio wiring, speaker wiring, air con/climate control wiring etc.

from those that i have spoken to... dewiring an existing loom seems to be the best way to go

Dewiring is a pain in the arse! But it does have advantages.

I look at it like this:

If you are leaving everything in it's original location then yes, dewire.

If you want to retain factory switch gear then dewire.

If you want to relocate fuse boxes and have switches for everything then buy a kit.

If you want to relocate fuse boxes and retain factory switch gear you end up with something like the picture which has partial factory dash and switch wiring, modified engine loom to suit relocated fuse box, custom alternator, battery, starter, and lighting wiring. I also did custom power window wiring. It was a PITA.

DSC00515.jpg

if your de wiring try this site, might help you with a tidy engine bay loom. and it has a lot of options.

http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/chase-bays-products/chase-bays-engine-harness--nissan-rb25det

as for the wipers, if you have ditched everything and kept wipers then you need the s14 loom for the full 6 wires(but thats easy to chop) you will either need new connectors or keep the old connector next to the computer. i would ditch the whole setup and run a switch and relay for them.

have a look at that site again, it might give you the wipers option?

thanks for that man. the engine loom will be easy as i will be getting a haltech with a flying loom. so will be able to start from scratch with that one,

well i ripped everything out of mine.. so much wiring!!!! far out. Makes me think that de/wiring it will be more time wasted then good and i might just be better off running new wires and loom.

I wired my car from scratch, wasn't overly hard, power windows where abit of a prick but I just used a 3 way momentary switch with 6 terminals on the bottom. You need to switch the ground/positive to go up/down.

Remember when wiring the alternator that you need a check light. Pm if you got an questions.

All I can say in my limited experience. Is buy a pair of Deutch plug crimpers ( I think there are 3 different sizes so be careful). Now make a friend who is an autosparky for earth moving equipment and or truck trailers like I have. Get him to buy all the deutch plugs at about 1/5th the price that any normal person can buy them/ sells them. (a plug I was quoted $15 bucks for cost him about $3-4) make sure you get some good quality side cutters and good quality wire strippers, good quality heat shrink and a tube dielectric grease. (all the things your new mate can source for a fraction of the price you can) last step invite your mate around for a bbq on a Saturday and explain to him that your a little confused on how to use the crimpers correctly and that you need about 2 dozen examples b4 you will get it right.

Your car is now rewired lol

the 2 companys that my mate deals with are below.

http://www.connectsource.com.au/

http://www.genr8.net.au/

YOUR WELCOME

Chris

can you pm me more info trent?

also whats the racepak unit? im getting one of their IQ3 dashes also

Simon i have pm turned off, email me info@statustuning.com and i will forward on the details.

I wired our 180 drift car from scratch. Its really easy if you know basic relay circuits. The ECU control is made up of a few relay circuits and thats it (were running PFC on the std ECU loom).

We thought about de-wiring but what a pain in the arse! There are sooo many things to get rid of, and if you cut one wrong thing youll be scratching your head for weeks because you wont understand the nissan loom. Youll spend as much time picking the tape off it as making a whole new loom.

I used the old 180 looms for the relays and relay plugs, and used the fuse box to hold the relays, hell, i even used the wire from it. All i bought was a 10 fuse holder from burson. The only paperwork I needed was the ECU pinout, and a ECU wiring diagram, for power, ECCS power circuit, tach and fuel pump run.

Well be running electric windows which are easily done as above, google a simple motor forward/reverse switch setup. If you can find a wiring diagram for the wipers thatll be a big help, otherwise just probe it before you remove it, and reuse that part of the loom.

Brakes/reverse/headlights are all simple relay circuits as well obviously. There are some pics in our build thread BUT its not finished yet so its not zip tied and conduited so it looks like a head ache but really its not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...