Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so i gotten a stock '98 R34 GT-T for my birthday, and now i want to begin tuning on it. I have a main idea where to start from but i would rather hear it from people that are more experienced then me, my dad is also a mechanic with over 40+ experience so i got his aid for any installations.

Here is a vague idea so far:

1.

· Exhaust (X-FORCE R34 TurboBack System)

· Intake (K&N Apollo cold air intake) or POD filter with a manufactured cover box

· Intercooler kit - any front mount

· Blow off valve

· SplitFire coil packs

· ECU (ApexiPower FC Computer with Boost Controller Kit)

Turbo timer

3. Short shifter kit

gd

sdSo thats what i got so far, any better substitutes to the aforementioned? anything else needed to accompany a fellow mod?, should i exclude something? My goal is to get the car to a bit over 200 RWKW from the stock 150 ". Price ranges would be nice too since i now have a limited pocket, sorry if its a bit of an open ended question but i really need help since im new to the whole skyline ownership. Anything is appreciated :)

hf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383728-new-toy-r34-need-help-with-build-up/
Share on other sites

1. have you searched these forums first before asking this question?

2. people will flame you for the bov

3. have you searched?

4. most will say just get a high flow panel filter for the std airbox.

5. have you done your own research first? cause you wouldnt need to ask these questions had you done that FIRST!!!

6. Why a short shifter, is that to gain that 1/10s on your 1/4 mile time???

7. if you buy cheap gear, you'll have problems and get a cheap result...

8. Did you search first? like really...?

Yea he searched, this is better then the first thread in the skyline descussion forum lol

First f**k the bov off cause they re a stupid modification

Also +1 on just getting a good panel filter and probably don't need the short shifter but they are nice to have...

I would invest in some good coil overs

As well as check the condition of ur brakes, rotors, pads, fluid etc

Justjap do some good intercooler kits as well

Try this thread mate. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361595-r34-gtt-basic-mods/

Basically, if the topic has been covered in the forum before, people will be flamin mongrels to you haha, its general rule of the forum.

The thread i linked above should give you some basic ideas as to what you want to look for in parts etc.

As for some of the stuff listed, well you are heading in the right direction for the most part.

*Scrap the bov, its useless and a waste of money.

*x2 On the coilovers. You dont want 200 odd rwkw with stock suspension.

* Not really sure on the price of 34's, but consider nistune instead of power fc, it may save $

* If you decide on a pod, make sure you have a box/shield made up like you mentioned, otherwise you will suck heat.

*Splitfire's may be of no use unless your coilpacks are already failing.

* Turbo timers arent really necessary, although its debated. Drive calmly for the last few minutes before you stop and it should do!

Hope that helps.

I would rahter stock suspension with 200kws over some f**king rubbish china super hard coilovers any day

Maybe on 34. With the 33 the stock is particularly shit. I doubt anyone is going to point him in the direction of cheap shit china jobs either.

Maybe on 34. With the 33 the stock is particularly shit. I doubt anyone is going to point him in the direction of cheap shit china jobs either.

Facepalm.jpg

Did say "good coil overs" zebra

Don't go too stiff cause it's just shit on the street

But people think G4 coilovers are good lol

Did say "good coil overs" zebra

Don't go too stiff cause it's just shit on the street

Rubbish! The harder the better. In fact... Weld the stock shocks.

Then invest in a triple plate clutch, cos that's also super badass.

2LAYER.jpg

Oh and... IBTL.

Edited by Hanaldo

As above:

- stock bov is awesome, if you want a bit more turbo noise put a pod filter on and you will hear some woosh and some pshhh. If you dont want the noise just get a good panel filter in the standard airbox.

- stock intercooler will go to 200rwkw fine but yeah a bigger front mount is better. Just make sure its return flow and black for the po po.

- Strongly suggest nistune over power fc on an R34.

- Dont worry about a turbo timer.

- Is the short shifter to make the shifter feel nicer or for speed. If its to feel nicer sure but dont worry about it if you are doing it to be faster.

return flow cooler, keep stock airbox (high flow filter) - just jap will be fine

standard bov

SWAY BARS!! - whiteline

nistune

splitfires = yes, but if you're on a budget, run the standards whilst you can, they're fine when they're working :D

i'd be looking at other exhaust options.

12psi will be ok for standard turbo, but will prob be a happy dyno for 200rwkw.

If budget can stretch, get Hypergear to highflow your turbo, something small-ish and strong, will get you around the 230rwkw but still be very responsive.

Get some good brake pads and brake cylinder stopper thingy, (cheapo ones on ebay)

Don't need short shift, the standard box is fantastic to shift with... try the 6sp getrag and compare, 25 box is MUCH nicer! imo anyway

don't know much about budget coilovers, i ran bilstein shocks and whiteline springs which was a really nice combo. Pedders gets shit canned a lot but i know some people (proper suspension shops) that have run them in their road cars and have said they're actually quite decent.

oh and good tyres to finish it off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...