Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guiys. well, cll me dumb stupid or blind... but, i am having trouble trying to locate the oil pressure sender. I have done a search on the forums.. and looked where it suggested, but.. me still cannot see this sender unit? Can somebody help a helpless person here? Also, on an auto meter gauge.. what is an average psi rating that the oil should be at? Mine sits on 4 on the stock gauge, so what should mine be reading on the auto meter gauge once i get it installed?

Thanks guys.

hehe ...well on the top of my head the oil pressure sensor will be located on the side of the block either inlet or exhaust side will look like a round screw in solinoid with a wire coming of it , thats if its elec and not oil fed line ....... but should be down near the oil pan just above were it joins too the block just take your time it shouldnt be too hard too find ....

as too the oil pressure gauge well its hard too say each car may be different ..... should be around 60 psi when warm may be a lil higher when cold ....... well if your looking at a jap oil pressure guage , its around 4-6 bar... round a bouts ....

Yepp, inlet side, just a few inches behind the oil filter (further towards the firewall).

It's an electrical sender unit that has a weird tappered thread on it.

I bought an adaptor to tee in a pickup for my new gauge but it won't fit due the the tappered thread in the block.

Looks like I'll have to get one made up by a machine ing shop :thumbsup: Next oil change I'll take the sender out again and take it in and get one made up.

J

well, i think i have found it. its not in the best of locations... just like my mazda.. so.. how has people gotten in there and removed the silly thing? Counter tapered in to the block i hear? thats gonna make life very interesting!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...