Jump to content
SAU Community

Intake Straight Pipe Problem

Captain Natro

By Captain Natro,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Captain Natro Grand Master

Captain Natro

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, ive taken off the standard cross over pipe and replaced it with straight steel piping without a resonator box. Atm, from the throttle body there is a 45 degree 3inch silicon joiner, then about 30cm of metal pipe then a 3inch joiner, the AFM and a pod filter. As soon as i start the car it stalls instantly, if i rev it slightly it will run but very poorly and as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator the car stalls.

There are two hoses that are not connected to anything atm, on runs to the intake manifold and the other to the top of the cam covers, these at present are not joined to anything. how can this problem be fixed?

(Worst case senario, ill just put the standard cross over pipe back on. But would like to get this to work as have heard the induction noise using metal pipe sounds ok :P)

Thanks Nikk

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384047-intake-straight-pipe-problem/
Share on other sites
Captain Natro Grand Master

Captain Natro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's the one running to the intake manifold if it is a largish hose than it is for the iac valve. Needs to be plumbed into the intake pipe

Thanks Zebra, so just anywhere after the AFM, and before the throttle body?

Captain Natro Grand Master

Captain Natro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha i couldnt wait until tomoro, ended up using a piece of a different inlet manifold i had and plumbed it into the intake just before the throttle body, and then attached the ICV hose to it and connected it up. It sounds so good, the induction roar is very nice :) (Thanks again zebra for the help, would of been stuffed with a car that wouldnt idle other wise :cheers: )

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

hey man, im in sydney atm as soon as i get back to the car ill post some up. it looks pretty good, but the sound is amazing around 4grand on wot :)

Yeah would be good to see it on a r33.

i have only seen it done on r34's, I know its easy on a r34 because you only need 2 90 degree pipes and it sounds good aswell.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...