Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I pulled my front bar off yesterday to find that half my fins on my intercooler are bent over hard and this is most likely contributing or the source of my weird overheatign problems atm. So im going to get a new intercooler.

There are heaps of coolers for the 32/33 gtr but not many other than the 2k HKS kits for the 34.

Im looking at the cooling pro ones for the 32/33 GTR. I have HKS GTSS turbos so im not after massive power.

Question is: How hard is it to mount the sensor from the std 34 GTR cooler into those and is it even nessecary.

Next: Are there any physical differences in the mounting points etc etc.

Or if someone can suggest a replacement cooler for under 1k Im happy to listen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384156-r34-gtr-intercooler-question/
Share on other sites

use a comb or a flat blade screw driver and straighten the fins, Just thinking of it there is a tool you can buy for it, I think most refrigerator repair shops sell them

annnndddd found one

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=36561

Are you talking about the intake temperature sensor?

If so, not necessary but it's not hard to do either. Just tap the holes for the screws or even get self tapping ones. Drill out the hole you need for the sensor and presto!

My sensor is hanging in the air at the moment as my cooler is not meant for the v-spec models. I'm waiting until I buy the hard piping kit then I will mount the sensor the same time the bar and cooler is off.

Greddy sell intercoolers with the sensor tappings in place as I had one on my old R33 GTR. I just had to use their blanking plate.

can you define the "weird overheating problems"

i would be totally gobsmacked if bent fins caused your weird overheating problems

ie; it doesnt make sense

bent fins could marginally affect inlet/outlet air temp but your wording sounds like water temp / radiator problems

are you mixing the two up?

Ok then.

I have a nismo radiator and thermostat.

The car used to run at 72-75.

It will now go to 75 then hop upto 77 then jump upto 85. If you stop it climbs up into the 90s. Once you start moving it gets back down to 80 then ever so slowly back to 75-77.

I have had it looked at by two workshops and everything seems fine to them. The cutch fan seems to throw a fair bit of air upwards but if you put your hand behind it, just doesnt feel as if its dragging much air through the radiator. Ine if the workshops put the dyno fan in front of the car and said it cooled back down then. So seems like an airflow problem. The car has been bled up a few times to elliminate air pockets, I have changed the coolant.

air lock in the coolant passages?

I too am with Paul now, if it is idling and getting hot than it isn't the intercooler, if you were cruising down the highway and it was doing it than yes, the cooler could be clocking air

Maybe the warmer weather has something to do with it? The fact that you are getting rising temps when sitting at lights is not an indication that the problem is the bent fins as no air will be passing through the radiator at that time. Your clutch fan is spinning and pushing air through the radiator(or sucking, I don't know) but the fact that you drive and it cools down to 75 is an indication that air is coming through. From 90c to 75c when you start moving.... its not luck, its functioning.

Edited by SargeRX8

Yeh im stuck on what to do. As I said the car has been bled a few times to get around an air lock.

I put my hand in near the front side of the radiator before and I could feel it sucking air through. I have had the car for about 6 months and I live in QLD so yes getting the hot weather, but still doesnt make sense for it to rise that much. Before the turbos went on it had no problem with the temps.

Oil temp is between 84-91 so that seems normal.

One of my turbo water pipes has a bit of a kink in it, but not enough to stop coolant flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...