Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 355
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That car looks too generic with nothing that resmbles from the old ae86. As someone who likes the shape of the ae86 this big jump from what it was to what they've created now and it's a bit too much to stomach personally. If toyota had kept evolving the ae86 from the old days then it's most recent shape might make sense.

the r35 gtr looks nothing like the original.......

That's beside the point because the r35 evolved to how it looks, do you think it would look the same if the previous r32 r33 and r34gtr's never existed?

Edited by Dobz

well given that it has very little in common with the r32-r34 skyline (other than round tail lights), then i would say yes. you can't really say that the v35 skyline takes much of it's design from the R series skylines, and the r35 takes a lot of it's styling cues from it and the 350z. look at all the other cars on the market and their designs. they are all that sort of design.

had toyota just taken the original design and round the edges a little bit then they would have a design that is about 20 years out of date. they have basically made the design relevant for todays market. they just skipped the middle generation.

The Subaru version, the BRZ, has a more subtle styling:

brzreveal.jpg

Can't find a pic but the rear of the subi version, BRZ, is horrid to say the least...

However look forward to seeing a hybrid, Toyota rear and subi front will look 10 times better

Looks a bit better IMO as I think it will age better than the Toyota version. The angular "tusks" coming off the front wheel arches on the 86 look a little strange but maybe something that will grow on me over time.

Keep in mind the only difference between the two are the front and rear bumpers. the rest is the same.

That car looks too generic with nothing that resmbles from the old ae86. As someone who likes the shape of the ae86 this big jump from what it was to what they've created now and it's a bit too much to stomach personally. If toyota had kept evolving the ae86 from the old days then it's most recent shape might make sense.

You're having a go, right?

so i found out a friend of mine is very keen for one of these, (pending a test drive of coarse)

Toyota told him 30-40 grand for the base models. and up to 50 for a TRD one, which as much as that sounds for a Rolla (not that it is at all), still alot less than a 370z.

and there will most def be a turbo version. :thumbsup:

re: all the comments complaining about why they decided to use a boxer etc.

not sure if any of you are aware but the economic events of the last few years have made it really difficult for companies to find viable reasons to spend large amounts of money. IMO i think this has played a large part in the reason why we are seeing relatively few options in this market segment over the last several years altogether.

why do you think this was even a joint venture between subaru and toyota in the first place? cost sharing exercise.. im sure toyota would have loved to have been able to revive the ae86 all by themselves in true form but in times like these, concessions must be made and in order to make the car affordable they must make use of existing equipment rather than create everything from scratch which becomes very costly.

IMO its almost a shame that the 86 had to come back at a time when the development may be somewhat hampered by economic conditions.

and is anyone else of the opinion that the concept was a million times better looking than this? it looks like they've taken to it with the ugly stick since everyone had wet dreams over the original concept. just sayin

Edited by jonboy

and is anyone else of the opinion that the concept was a million times better looking than this? it looks like they've taken to it with the ugly stick since everyone had wet dreams over the original concept. just sayin

Yep, but that happens with nearly all concepts.

Reason? Whilst the concept gets everyone excited, car manufacturers have to "pull back" the extreme design to appeal to a larger market... or so they think. What they fail to realise is that by doing so, they lose that special something that excited everyone with original design.

I picture it as a Samurai going into battle with a steel pipe instead of a razor sharp sword... sure he is going to do some damage but he really isn't all he can be.

As an aside, I really like the Mazda concepts and hope they don't "dull the sword" too much.

Yep, but that happens with nearly all concepts.

Reason? Whilst the concept gets everyone excited, car manufacturers have to "pull back" the extreme design to appeal to a larger market... or so they think. What they fail to realise is that by doing so, they lose that special something that excited everyone with original design.

I picture it as a Samurai going into battle with a steel pipe instead of a razor sharp sword... sure he is going to do some damage but he really isn't all he can be.

As an aside, I really like the Mazda concepts and hope they don't "dull the sword" too much.

it isn't just to make it appeal to a wider market, it is to make the styling age a bit better. concept car styling is based off what is the current trend. it's all about making it look like something from 5 years time which generally gives it a pretty short shelf life when it comes to having a model that is supposed to last a few years between updates.

i actually have to agree with this. a mate of mine owns 3 86's, all with different spec (4AC, 4AGE, 4AGZE). the later 2 go well in a straight line (the 4AC is a slug though). they handle ok, but not that great, even with mods, and they are absolute crap to drift. i have no idea why they are a cult drift car. that is the reason why you seem amature drifters in them constantly spinning out.

I think they were just cheap and available back in the day plus you have the initial D thing going on.

I'd imagine they have a chassis about as stiff as a 80 year olds dick with a bad hangover, so not that great to drift really.

I dont doubt STi will get their hands on it, possibly a 2.0L turbo 4wd STi version in the next couple of years

Why would Subaru want to make a car to compete with the AWD Impreza?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...