Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bit of a redbull white wash hey

yap.

p2 Times

01 Sebastian Vettel Red Bull 1:26.221 35 laps

02 Mark Webber Red Bull 1:26.339 0.118 33 laps

03 Fernando Alonso Ferrari 1:26.820 0.599 34 laps

04 Nico Rosberg Mercedes 1:27.022 0.801 38 laps

05 Kimi Raikkonen Lotus 1:27.030 0.809 40 laps

06 Lewis Hamilton McLaren 1:27.131 0.910 38 laps

07 Jenson Button McLaren 1:27.182 0.961 24 laps

08 Nico Hulkenberg Force India 1:27.233 1.012 37 laps

09 Romain Grosjean Lotus 1:27.397 1.176 36 laps

10 Bruno Senna Williams 1:27.738 1.517 36 laps

11 Paul di Resta Force India 1:28.004 1.783 32 laps

12 Sergio Perez Sauber 1:28.178 1.957 39 laps

13 Michael Schumacher Mercedes 1:28.222 2.001 37 laps

14 Daniel Ricciardo Toro Rosso 1:28.239 2.018 37 laps

15 Felipe Massa Ferrari 1:28.296 2.075 23 laps

16 Kamui Kobayashi Sauber 1:28.455 2.234 40 laps

17 Pastor Maldonado Williams 1:28.596 2.375 38 laps

18 Jean-Eric Vergne Toro Rosso 1:29.167 2.946 35 laps

19 Heikki Kovalainen Caterham 1:29.320 3.099 43 laps

20 Vitaly Petrov Caterham 1:29.606 3.385 22 laps

21 Pedro de la Rosa HRT 1:30.950 4.729 37 laps

22 Timo Glock Marussia 1:31.113 4.892 35 laps

23 Narain Karthikeyan HRT 1:31.372 5.151 20 laps

24 Charles Pic Marussia 1:31.493 5.272 31 laps

http://www.planetf1.com/news/3213/8195861/Vettel-Leads-Red-Bull-1-2-And-Alonso

boring race is going to be boring..

  • Replies 5.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

An incorrect setting on his Ferrari caused Felipe Massa to struggle with its handling during second practice for the Indian Grand Prix.

The Brazilian, who had been seventh quickest in the morning, spun several times during the second session and was unable to set a proper laptime after damaging his tyres.

http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/103740

p3 Times

01 Sebastian Vettel Red Bull 1:25.842 20 laps

02 Jenson Button McLaren 1:26.034 0.192 17 laps

03 Mark Webber Red Bull 1:26.108 0.266 18 laps

04 Lewis Hamilton McLaren 1:26.151 0.309 21 laps

05 Kimi Raikkonen Lotus 1:26.209 0.367 22 laps

06 Bruno Senna Williams 1:26.214 0.372 24 laps

07 Fernando Alonso Ferrari 1:26.521 0.679 15 laps

08 Nico Hulkenberg Force India 1:26.531 0.689 21 laps

09 Michael Schumacher Mercedes 1:26.652 0.810 21 laps

10 Romain Grosjean Lotus 1:26.664 0.822 21 laps

11 Felipe Massa Ferrari 1:26.691 0.849 13 laps

12 Pastor Maldonado Williams 1:27.140 1.298 18 laps

13 Sergio Perez Sauber 1:27.162 1.320 21 laps

14 Paul di Resta Force India 1:27.193 1.351 22 laps

15 Nico Rosberg Mercedes 1:27.229 1.387 21 laps

16 Daniel Ricciardo Toro Rosso 1:27.374 1.532 21 laps

17 Jean-Eric Vergne Toro Rosso 1:27.711 1.869 20 laps

18 Kamui Kobayashi Sauber 1:27.983 2.141 19 laps

19 Heikki Kovalainen Caterham 1:29.035 3.193 20 laps

20 Vitaly Petrov Caterham 1:29.237 3.395 20 laps

21 Timo Glock Marussia 1:29.745 3.903 19 laps

22 Charles Pic Marussia 1:30.298 4.456 20 laps

23 Narain Karthikeyan HRT 1:30.824 4.982 22 laps

24 Pedro de la Rosa HRT 1:30.873 5.031 22 laps

http://www.planetf1.com/news/3213/8197811/Vettel-s-Indian-Practice-Reign-Continues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...