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Rb30 Crank Does It Require Collar?

RJ06

By RJ06,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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RJ06 Proficient

RJ06

Posted
Posted

Hi all, ive been reading about the RB30 builds for the past couple of days and one thing is really bugging me.

Ive had a bunch of mixed answers regarding the crank collar. I'll be using a RB30 crank and i got a couple of brand new RB25DET oil pumps lying around, so i figured why not use one of them instead of buying an N1 pump etc. So will i need to get a collar put onto the crank?

The oil pumps i have are for series 1 r33 gtst.

Ive googled it several times and came up with a reply that says i wont be needing one? :blink:

"The oil issues/problems were with the early R32 cranks which had a narrow oil pump drive that invariably leads to oil pump failure and major engine damage. 1993+ GTR's had this problem rectified, however since you have an RB30 crank you won't need a crank collar. Also, if you keep revs ~8K max an N1 pump will be fine."

Thanks guys, im really looking for some ideas suggestions to what i should do. :D

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

All RB's need the longer oil pump drive.

If you have bought the RB30 crank from someone who didn't get it straight from an original motor, it may have a collar fitted already.

If the flat area on the crank that is the oil pump drive is around 3mm long (running down the length of the crank) you DON'T have the collar on and you should get one put on.

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R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

definitely put one on there mate! its good insurance

I don't understand why anyone wouldn't fit one.

While the motor is apart, for the sake of what - $150 for the collar (conservative!), $100-200 for fitting the item.

If you build a forged motor with all the goodies (few thousand $$$) and your oil pump drive fails, wave goodbye to a good portion (if not all!) of that money...

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Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

the way i think of it, which holds better a screw after 3 turns? or after 15 turns? same theroy, more crank material there is to contact the oil pump gears then less chance of slipping

here is a before collar fitted and after, (if you dont know what your looking at the main journal is covered in red anti rust, just before it towards the snout is the collar)

Block_033.jpg

Block_038.jpg

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bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I have used a stock RB30 crank with an N1 pump and when I pulled it down there were witness marks on the inside of the inner gear. This time around I had the crank snout welded up and put some Reimax gears in the N1 pump housing.

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AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
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Does the crank have to come out to fit the collar as that would mean opening up my stock bottom end?

Need opinons on whether to use stock RB25det S2 pump or leave the RB30 pump on, its only a streeter so no insane revs etc...

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GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

Yes crank out job.

Also if you go into the biger pumps like the tomie, you need to machine/grind part of the RB30 block for it to fit on flush as the larger rear housing on the pump interferes with the block.

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Rbdirty30 Proficient

Rbdirty30

Posted
Posted

Build it once, build it properly, don't build a motor on a tight budget or there's a real chance you'll be rebuilding it again soon , that's what I've learnt with rb's

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Dylan andrew Apprentice

Dylan andrew

Posted
Posted

i have put one on the build i am doing now, for the price of 140 dollars and machine/ fitment. small price to pay compared to what it could cost you.

couldn't agree more with the 'Build it once, build it properly'.

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

i have put one on the build i am doing now, for the price of 140 dollars and machine/ fitment. small price to pay compared to what it could cost you.

couldn't agree more with the 'Build it once, build it properly'.

Are you also replacing the pump? Some of the original 30 pumps do not fit over the collar. Pay you to check first.

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