Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just really getting annoyed with my car when driving it cold or even first line in dash water temp...

i just drive ok soon as i hit 3000/4000rpm just sounds like it splatters/hesitates, exhaust sound is like brrrrr brrr when between that rev range but when its fully warm no problem at all runs good...just dont get it..

any ideas guys cause have to always wait till it warms up fully and is a pain..

Well i just changed the turbo to slightly bigger and it is doing it all of a sudden never done it with the stock one... just when im about to hit boost which is the revs i described....

Under oiled turbo? u mean like no oil coming through or just takes a while to get oil in until its fuilly warm....seems like that.

Edited by RamR33

your probably hitting R+R because its still cold and you have a bigger turbo

doubt its anything to do with turbo bearings being under oiled

not much you can do about it if you still have the std ECU, its a tuning thing

if it was the bearings it be stuffed and smoking and all plus i have a braided line which came with the turbo which was new and i have a greddy computer on it so im sure its a tuning thing as it wasnt really tuned only tuned for detonation as in power tune...its still ok but just takes awhile to warm up but i guess i can live with that for now :)

my r32 has the same issue exactly for over 6 months now. Stock ECU, stock r33 turbo. I had a TR43 turbo before but changed to a r33 turbo now - I've changed fuel pump, coil packs, spark plugs and O2 sensor, still there. Funny thing is, the issue goes away EXACTLY when the temp gauge hits half way mark - on the DOT!

any other ideas? :(

i maybe thought it was going into coldstart mode so thought it was the water temp sensor but guess not...like u said when its half way or at its normal engine temp its all good.....Maybe FPR or AFM...

Has to be ecu just going a lil koo koo until it hits its normal operating temp.Tune must be the last option i guess.

Edited by RamR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...