Stagea - 5,000Rpm Problems

[purezx]

Hey guys

Well having dramas again with unsure weather its the AFM meter again or not? I had no pod on the AFM meter before and killed the AFM (totally my fault) an now I have a pod adapot and a pod filter on it, you go to plant your foot down and I hit around 5000rpm and it's like the brakes ate being slammed on, pulls right back at me? Any idea what this is caused by? I am goin to put the standard air box back on but my other recent turbo cars I have done this and never had any issue with it? Also I blocked the bov of to make it flutter also any problems with doing this or anything? Let me know guys?

Regards

Matthew

[QWK32]

What model stagea? How much boost? Etc...

The first thing that comes to mind is airflow cut. If its a C34 S2 you could also be hitting the factory overboost protection.

Blocking the BOV will only cause stalling when backing off, it's a pain in the ass with an auto. If your not getting any stalling then don't worry about it. The only other things is you will get the occasional backfire.

[BigBoyDan]

Ive read somewhere on here that there's a glitch in the standard ecu map between 4500-5000rpm

[QWK32]

Ive read somewhere on here that there's a glitch in the standard ecu map between 4500-5000rpm

yeah there is, not really a glitch but more like a big dip in the timing. if your hitting those cells it will feel like a flat spot in acceleration, and the more airflow or boost you run on the stock map the more you will feel it.

[purezx]

Just put the air box back on and it revs right out like normal , the AFM on a Stagea doest like a pod right there?? I might try running a 45 degree end see how it goes then?

[purezx]

Also it's a standard boost m35 2003 model no mods done at all apart from pod and it doesn't like it lol

[Commsman]

Also it's a standard boost m35 2003 model no mods done at all apart from pod and it doesn't like it lol

Hi Mathew,

factory airbox is way better than a pod, as I guess you've worked out, lol. You can get them to work, but why bother when the airbox & standard filter will flow more air (& colder) at negligible restriction than the engine will most likely ever need.

Cheers, Leon.

[bigkevracer]

I've got a pod on mine. Required nothing to get it to work, just a filter adaptor for a 350Z.

Leon, when you say an airbox and standard filter will flow more air, have you tested it? On mine I had a significant increase in AFM voltage on the informeter when I put the pod on. Somewhere around 0.5V (which I thought was a lot when it only goes up to 5V, works out to 10%). Considering I had a Blitz panel filter and the powerduct cover removed I wouldn't have thought it would have given me that big an increase.

Temps seem ok too. Intake temp while moving is typically around 30 degrees. While stationary you do get some head soak depending on the ambient temp and how long you're sitting there, but when I complete the setup I'll put some head shielding up.

Mine has no issue, but the injectors were maxing out before the ECU rejiggered itself. I only had the pod, no suction pipe.

The only difference I can think of is the dump pipe and exhaust? I had all mine done by then.

What kind of pod are you using Matthew?

[Scriblez]

I agree with Ryan, I was running the standard air box on my S2 C34 and have noticed nothing but an improvement since fitting a POD. Not only that but the zorst sounds deeper too and throttle response is greater.

[purezx]

Yeh i do not want to use the standard air box becuase with the pod it spools up so much louder, seems alot less restricted and temps still seem very good. I think i may have worked out the problem, i made my own custom pod adaptor (boilmaker) and i used 75mm piping. but it was 80mm long, like went like 80mm inside in the pod, so i think it was restricting the air flow in, so by cutting it back to like 30mm it will allow the WHOLE to do it job, rather than just the top and sort of forcing the induction through the AFM??

Its a dual POD like the top and also the side, its a decent one...

[bigkevracer]

Ok a couple of things, if I've understood you properly...

The Pod adaptor should be 80mm diameter, not 75mm.

Dual POD? Like an RB26? But you've only got one turbo...

Can you show us a pic?

[Commsman]

Leon, when you say an airbox and standard filter will flow more air, have you tested it?

You may have misunderstood my post. It reads as one long sentence. To paraphrase, the standard airbox will flow more air than the engine will most likely ever need. But, to make it harder to read (lol), I also inserted that the air will most likely be colder & the extra restriction will be negligible (referring to std airbox).

I have no doubt a pod filter can flow more air (I admit that change on the informeter is surprisingly large Ryan), but at what cost? More flow generally equals less filtration (no such thing as a free lunch). It's a matter of weighing up risk v's reward I guess.

I've read lots of tests that show pod filters often provide no measurable gain, so I'd rather spend my $100 on something else. I wouldn't mind being proven wrong (before & after dyno tests anyone?) but I don't want to risk my engine ingesting dust & grit for the sake of a few kW (I live in the country remember). For an extra 10+rwkw maybe I would; but I'd be dreaming if I thought that was realistic.

Having voiced my opinion, I understand people spend more money on an exhaust because they like the sound, so if the extra induction/turbo noise puts a smile on your face, than that's cool .

[andy65b]

Hey guys

Well having dramas again with unsure weather its the AFM meter again or not? I had no pod on the AFM meter before and killed the AFM (totally my fault) an now I have a pod adapot and a pod filter on it, you go to plant your foot down and I hit around 5000rpm and it's like the brakes ate being slammed on, pulls right back at me? Any idea what this is caused by? I am goin to put the standard air box back on but my other recent turbo cars I have done this and never had any issue with it? Also I blocked the bov of to make it flutter also any problems with doing this or anything? Let me know guys?

Regards

Matthew

Sounds like you are hitting Boost Cut.. This is when the AFM has a voltage reading of 4.85v or over for any amount of time (on the stock ECU) , the ECU will cut boost and fuel to protect the motor.

It feels very much like the brakes have been applied very quickly.

[bigkevracer]

You may have misunderstood my post. It reads as one long sentence. To paraphrase, the standard airbox will flow more air than the engine will most likely ever need. But, to make it harder to read (lol), I also inserted that the air will most likely be colder & the extra restriction will be negligible (referring to std airbox).

I have no doubt a pod filter can flow more air (I admit that change on the informeter is surprisingly large Ryan), but at what cost? More flow generally equals less filtration (no such thing as a free lunch). It's a matter of weighing up risk v's reward I guess.

I've read lots of tests that show pod filters often provide no measurable gain, so I'd rather spend my $100 on something else. I wouldn't mind being proven wrong (before & after dyno tests anyone?) but I don't want to risk my engine ingesting dust & grit for the sake of a few kW (I live in the country remember). For an extra 10+rwkw maybe I would; but I'd be dreaming if I thought that was realistic.

Having voiced my opinion, I understand people spend more money on an exhaust because they like the sound, so if the extra induction/turbo noise puts a smile on your face, than that's cool .

Haha right that makes more sense Leon. I've read many a conflicting report on pod filters and their filtration, and haven't worked it out entirely myself. But I had the K&N pod kicking around, and thought I'd try it as an experiment. It's worked kind of well, except that with the ECU relearning its hammered by fuel economy. On the plus side it does give me room for a catch can and easy access to my HID ballasts

That, and the Fcon should allow me to tune around any issues. If I've got the setup to make use of that extra airflow then I'm pretty keen to do so. Suction pipe will be next on the list!

Sounds like you are hitting Boost Cut.. This is when the AFM has a voltage reading of 4.85v or over for any amount of time (on the stock ECU) , the ECU will cut boost and fuel to protect the motor.

It feels very much like the brakes have been applied very quickly.

I think I was measuring 4.86V after I put mine on, so that would be about right I'm guessing.

[Jetwreck]

Had pod setups on most of my cars to date.......great on the track and freeway......shit on a town car......just remember there is a temp sensor in the afm with our car so the more heat the crapper it will run.

[bigkevracer]

Can someone with an Informeter tell me how high their intake temps are with a stock airbox on?

[scotty nm35]

I have seen over 90 degrees in traffic on a hot day, waiting for the lights to turn green. That was before the mods to cool it down like plenum spacer, 3 inch intake etc.