Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384506-new-tyres-for-the-v/
Share on other sites

Haha...Glad you finally changed those cheap indonesian tyres!

Good price on the RE0050As as well! Those were not going for less than $500 so I opted for the Hankook S1 evos instead.

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

After a bunch of trouble with my V35 sedan:

* When bought, mismatched tyres all round, various states of wear

* Offset all wrong, alignment stuffed: tramlined like a little so-and-so, steered like a barge

I had the staggered Arthur Exchange 18" rims machined (to correct the offset), all new rubber, full balance, alignment and suspension/steering setup done.

Lasted 8 months before I somehow suddenly got a bent rear passenger rim, and on inspection, 3 of the 4 tyres were delaminating.

Time for this setup to go. I'm very out-of-pocket at this stage.

* Bought some used 18" 350Z rims, with 50% RE040 all round.

* Had them balanced and fitted

"Floaty" driving feel, looked like the tyres were "stretched" on the rim (225/45R18)....lasted 4 months before the rubber was worn right down.

Oops, now I need rego. And 4 new tyres. Right now.

* Settled on Nexen N8000 (yes, yes, they're no P-ZEROs) for $135 each shipped (235/40R18).

* Had them fitted by the local guys in my suburb, balanced, and a 4-way "supardupar with laser beams OMG!" alignment done

Done 500km so far, and they're quiet, steer nicely, and I hope my tyre saga is over. Or else I think I'm being divorced! :-(

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

At those prices did you check if they are grey/parallel imports? I purchased some Continentals from an Ebay tire store in Syd recently...pretty much half the usual RRP and later found out they were not DOT approved.

I Just recently started working at bridgestone and yea they are expensive as hell but me and my boss are both running achillies tyres and they are truely awesome for the money they cost, and mine are 20s

At those prices did you check if they are grey/parallel imports? I purchased some Continentals from an Ebay tire store in Syd recently...pretty much half the usual RRP and later found out they were not DOT approved.

They don't necessarily need to be DOT approved. If they're compliant with:

e(3) - european

DOT - american

JIS - Japan.

And, even more confusingly, the current ADRs for tyres don't even require that the approval rating's mark be present anymore:

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67224560-ADR-Approved-Tyres.-What-DOT-marking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...