Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

very easy swap i almost did it years ago. the engine bolts strait up. the bonnett needs to lift about 30mm and mine had a factory hole for the wiring in the fire wall. i wish i did it but brought a house and sold the car i miss the car

I got mine in under the bonnet by using a combination of L series and RB engine mount brackets, I think I may also have swapped them left to right.. I can't remember exactly what I used though, so you will have to figure it yourself(not hard at all)

If you use a greddy style manifold you will have even more clearance.

As for spacing the bonnet, yes it may be the easiest way to gain clearance but it is also illegal(in QLD at least) a better option would be to space the engine crossmember down, which it turn gives you more transmission tunnel room, a bonus if you plan on using an rb25 or 350z gearbox.

This will mess with the front end steering geometry a bit, but if you are lowering the car you are doing the same thing anyway.

A winged or hi volume sump is a good ideas as it not only gives you're engine more oil to work with, but can give you more ground to sump clearance such is ALWAYS a good thing.

This is all I can think of at the moment, but look at the time. Wtf am I even awake? Meh, jack to sleep for me.

I got mine in under the bonnet by using a combination of L series and RB engine mount brackets, I think I may also have swapped them left to right.. I can't remember exactly what I used though, so you will have to figure it yourself(not hard at all)

If you use a greddy style manifold you will have even more clearance.

As for spacing the bonnet, yes it may be the easiest way to gain clearance but it is also illegal(in QLD at least) a better option would be to space the engine crossmember down, which it turn gives you more transmission tunnel room, a bonus if you plan on using an rb25 or 350z gearbox.

This will mess with the front end steering geometry a bit, but if you are lowering the car you are doing the same thing anyway.

A winged or hi volume sump is a good ideas as it not only gives you're engine more oil to work with, but can give you more ground to sump clearance such is ALWAYS a good thing.

This is all I can think of at the moment, but look at the time. Wtf am I even awake? Meh, jack to sleep for me.

Thanks mate exactly wat I need to hear, I wanna use my C210 as a tow car for my 180sx drift car, hence the reason I want the rb30 for easier towing....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...