Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've tried searching the internet for some problems I'm having with my R32 GTR, I'm sort of new and still learning alot of things go easy haha.

Ive laid underneath my car and i can see the hicas lockbar all hooked, However if i take a corner hard , not so hard that im throwing the weightt of the car around it, But more like taking it fast with a little bit of angle which a gtr should manage .. The back end seems to kick out and it sort of feels like its trying to correct the steering .. But the back end just ends up kicking out a little bit . Is this normal or should i be checking things? Sorry if this sounds stupid I dont know much about the rest of the system except whats in the engine & bay itself lol.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384700-hicas-lockbar-r32gtr/
Share on other sites

The 3 things that go and cause the issue you are describing are:

The outer ball joint that's pressed into the knuckle

The inner ball joint on the tie rods

The subframe bushes (but that feels more like the back end is flopping about than actually trying to steer)

Most people with this issue find it's the outer ball joint, on my car the inner went and the outers were fine. It doesn't take much play for it to start feeling very unsettled.

The 3 things that go and cause the issue you are describing are:

The outer ball joint that's pressed into the knuckle

The inner ball joint on the tie rods

The subframe bushes (but that feels more like the back end is flopping about than actually trying to steer)

Most people with this issue find it's the outer ball joint, on my car the inner went and the outers were fine. It doesn't take much play for it to start feeling very unsettled.

Hey , thanks for the reply . How can i test these things out? Because i grabbed each side and gave it a pretty good shaking i couldnt really see any movement or feel anything . Should i get it up on a hoist/jack and try it? Or is it worth just buying a new bar. Cheers

You really need to put a bit of force on the wheel to move it enough to see if there's a problem as you are pushing against the rest of the bushes in the rear suspension. You need to get the wheels off the ground and get under the car to see where the movement is when you are putting force on the wheels

No need to replace the lock bar. It's a bit of pipe with 2 tabs for the bolts and 2 threaded bungs for the tie rods. Nothing to go wrong.

You really need to put a bit of force on the wheel to move it enough to see if there's a problem as you are pushing against the rest of the bushes in the rear suspension. You need to get the wheels off the ground and get under the car to see where the movement is when you are putting force on the wheels

No need to replace the lock bar. It's a bit of pipe with 2 tabs for the bolts and 2 threaded bungs for the tie rods. Nothing to go wrong.

Thanks mate Will check it out , Havnt had time lately

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...