Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guilty:

Mechanical - you have to run a boost line into the cabin to hook up to the gauge.

Electrical - You have a sender unit in the engine bay near the boost line and run wires in the cabin to the boost gauge that sends an electronic signal to the boost gauge.

you can get mechanical el guages... the big difference / confusion is mechanical and electronic... mech ones are a lot cheaper... i've got a blitz mechanical 52mm gauge and it's great if you can be bothered running a hose into your cabin... electronic normally have a high cost for the guage then another high cost for the electronic control unit...

Guest INASNT

Its the same difference as running a mechanical and electronic boost controller. The electronc one will work better. Electronic will do all the peak hold and other extra functions where the mechanical wont.

EL is a type of gauge that apexi make, it mean the backlit is electroluminicant (no bulb used) and they come in both mechanical and electronic form.

I think the other main reason for electronic vs. mechanical is the safety aspect (although the chances of something going wrong are extremely low.)

Mechanical gauges require a pipe to run from the engine to the back of the gauge. If the pipe were to break/burst or the fitting came undone (as I said, extremely low odds), whatever is in the pipe is free to spray all over the interior of your car. Boost may not be too bad, you'll just end up with the cutting out problem from having a vacuum leak. But having a pressurised hot oil pipe leaking/spraying in your interior (and your face) is not good!

Electrical gauges have the sensor right at the place they're measuring - if there's a leak, its in the engine bay.

From memory some levels of competition don't allow mechanical gauges for this reason, highly modified engines start lowering the odds on the "things going wrong" scale.

For street use though, mechanical boost gauge is fine for general boost observation (most also display the vaccum which could be advantageous to you?). I'm about to get one but am thinking of spending the extra money on an electrical with peak hold and warning. Don't have much time to watch the gauge when you're driving on the road, better to see the peak boost after your run IMHO. Having the overboost warning light is definately an added benefit too if I'm watching the road and not my boost!

Yeah, most of the good Japanese companies only have the elect. ones for oil and any other potentially unsafe gauge. Some companies (ie. Autometer) have 'em all available as mechanical though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
    • Shit. Starting to look like a car again.
×
×
  • Create New...