R32 Gtr Build For Superlap 2012

[BK]

Thought I'd start a new topic about wanting to do Superlap next year and need some input with making this happen with my R32 GTR. I was starting to drag this car but after destroying nearly every component of the car over the last 3 years I'd like to stop with the drag and try Superlap. After countless failures such as gearboxes, diffs and engine the car has changed config a few times but is currently modded like this:

ENGINE

• HKS V-band T51S turbo (Exhaust A/R 1.00)

• Single K+N air filter

• New 05U RB26 block

• Trust/Greddy 50mm external wastegate

• Tomei metal head gasket

• Highly modified head porting

• Crower billet steel conrods w/ rod bolts fully balanced

• CP 86.5mm forged pistons + rings balanced

• R33/R34 GTR crankshaft fully balanced

• Nitto competition oil pump

• Nismo N1 water pump

• Nismo 62 deg. thermostat

• Apexi 280 deg. 9.7/8.7mm lift IN + EX camshafts

• Tomei bronze valve guides and Tomei type-B valve springs

• Tomei 1.5mm head to block oil restrictor

• Trust 8 litre sump extension w/ baffles

• ARP head stud kit

• ARP main stud kit

• Apexi Power FC D-jetro ECU + FC commander

• Splitfire super direct ignition coilpacks

• HKS Twin power DLI ignition system

• NGK Iridium R5686 racing series 8 spark plugs – 0.8mm

• Trust alloy radiator air guide

• UAS top mount oil/air separator kit w/ secondary HKS catch can w/ K+N filter

• Trust drag tube and fin intercooler w/ HKS piping L x H x W - 620 x 300 x 102mm

• Trust/Grex oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 200 x 50mm

• Tomei metal throttle gaskets

• Tomei metal exhaust + intake manifold gaskets

• Gates racing kevlar timing belt

• 2 x Trust adjustable camshaft gears

• 6 x Sard/Denso 11mm 1000cc injectors – single spray

• SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator

• Trust twin entry fuel rail – 11mm

• 1 x Sard 280L/hr in-tank fuel pump

• 2 x Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pumps

• 3L aluminium surge tank w/ perspex enclosure

• Full 10mm braided fuel lines from pumps to rail

• Full silicone heater hose kit

• Silicone radiator hose kit

EXHAUST

• HKS 42.7mm stainless turbo manifold

• HKS 100 mm stainless dump/front pipe

• 2 x Trust 75mm stainless cat converter in paralell

• Trust 100mm mild steel cat back system

DRIVELINE

• Std open front diff

• Std R32 GTR rear limited slip diff

• OS Giken 5-speed synchro gearbox (std 5th) w/OS input

• Trust quick shift kit

• ATS/Carbonetic carbon triple plate clutch 1350kg and 6.5kg flywheel

• Nismo push clutch slave cylinder

• Nismo transmission mount

• APP stainless braided/teflon coated full clutch line

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

• Front Endless slotted and ventilated rotors

• Front - Std Nissan four-piston callipers w/EBC green pads

• Rear - Std Nissan twin-piston callipers w/Bendix pads

• Rear Std Nissan ventilated rotors

• Cusco Front and rear adjustable strut braces

• Whiteline Urethane front upper control arm bushes

• Whiteline Urethane rear suspension cradle bushes

• Tein front turnbuckle tension/caster rods

• Tein rear adjustable pillowball arms

• Tein type HA coilover suspension

WHEELS AND TYRES

Street

• Rays engineering Volk racing forged aluminium 18” x 10”JJ (+12 offset).Tyres Falken Ziex- R18. 265/35 – 95Y

INTERIOR

• Cusco Safety 21 6-point roll cage

• RCI 5-point racing harness (Dec/08)

• 2 x Bride racing bucket seats - Front

• Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge

• 60mm boost gauge

• 60mm exhaust temp gauge

• Autometer 5” monster tacho w/ shift light

• HKS EVC-3 boost controller

• Momo sports steering wheel

EXTERIOR

• External battery isolator

Engine output

BP ultimate 98 ron

Power- 523kW @ wheels with 1.8bar

1.3bar is about 440-450kw red lining at 8500rpm. I'll get some photos up in this thread soon.

About to go on the car is a PWR 42mm alloy radiator, Whiteline front+rear swaybars, Tein monoflex adjustable suspension with 7kg front+rear springs and a Sparco sprint V fixed racing seat.

Any suggestions on what else I'll need to think about on this car to make it reliable on the track

eg. do I really need to upgrade the front brakes from stock ?

I'd really like some input from regular track racers and people that have competed at Superlap already to give me the low down on making my car ready for the track. Cheers in advance.

[Duncan]

lol I'm willing to bet you have the fastest GTR in town.

Anyway, on topic, $uperlap is a once a year event with super $$$ cars. Looks like bad value for money to me.

If you are serious at giving it a go you need to work with someone who knows how to prepare a gtr - bolt ons, no matter what brand or price are not going to get you close. for example, the top local cars this year were all supported from an engineering view by one supercar team or another.

Looks like you have sufficient power sorted, so all you need is a fully custom suspension setup, huge weight saving and custom tyres straight from the manufacturer that other competitors can't buy. Oh, and a professional driver. Then you are a shot for top 10

[levinboy]

Wow that is an awesome mods list!!

Bigger brakes will be a good start and sorting out the suspension. Then most of all seat time!!

[Marlin]

lol I'm willing to bet you have the fastest GTR in town.

Anyway, on topic, $uperlap is a once a year event with super $$$ cars. Looks like bad value for money to me.

If you are serious at giving it a go you need to work with someone who knows how to prepare a gtr - bolt ons, no matter what brand or price are not going to get you close. for example, the top local cars this year were all supported from an engineering view by one supercar team or another.

Looks like you have sufficient power sorted, so all you need is a fully custom suspension setup, huge weight saving and custom tyres straight from the manufacturer that other competitors can't buy. Oh, and a professional driver. Then you are a shot for top 10

I agree with most of the above.... the power is there, now you need it to stop and turn, and make it last for the event. First think I'd be doing is dry sumping it. It will never live long without it, no 26 will, well, not if you lap the 'Creek in undwer 1:40 anyway.

But I have to ask Dunc, where do you get this shit mate?

[BK]

I'm from Alice Springs and everthing cost money to go anywhere and do anything. A trip to soundwave is like $2500 per year. There's 6 GTRs in town and I have 2 of them after I sold my other R32. Really, dry sumping it. I was looking at the Hi octane dry sump kit but it is a bit costly.

Man I've never raced on a circuit before but have a racing brain as I've raced motocross and supercross for around 20 years competitively. Done 170km/h on bike in Finke to top ten it (out of 500+). I need input on the guys who do this stuff and what you would do to this particular car for this event. I know people would be saying race your R33 GTR but it's my baby street car and don't want to wreck it. Modifications for the R33:

ENGINE - STOCK BOTTOM END + HEAD

• Apexi Power FC (L-Jetro) ECU + FC commander

• NGK Iridium IRI Iritop 7 spark plugs – 0.8mm gap

• Nismo oil filter

• Apexi 80mm super suction air filter kit

• UAS alloy radiator air guide

• UAS top mount oil/air separator kit

• SFS red silicone upper and lower radiator hoses

• Blitz V-spec LM tube and fin intercooler L x H x W - 620 x 300 x 102mm

• Trust/Grex oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 143 x 50mm

• Tomei metal throttle gaskets

• HKS metal exhaust manifold gaskets

• Power Enterprise kevlar timing belt (at 70,000km)

• 2 x Fidanza adjustable camshaft gears

• 2 x HKS GT-SS metal turbine ball-bearing turbos

• 2 x HKS adjustable wastegate actuators set at 18 psi

• 6 x Power Enterprise 700cc injectors (Std fuel rail)

• Nismo 280L/hr in-tank fuel pump (Std regulator)

• 2 x Nissan 80mm Z32 airflow meters

• 2 x Apexi Z32 airflow meter connectors

• Splitfire super direct ignition coils

EXHAUST

• HKS 42.7mm stainless turbo manifolds

• HKS stainless O2 sensor pipes (split wastegates)

• HKS 2 x 70/85mm stainless front pipe

• Magic performance 100mm stainless catalytic converter with 90mm reducers

• Sprint mufflers custom 90mm stainless cat to muffler section with HKS gaskets

• HKS 95/120mm stainless Hi Power muffler

DRIVELINE

• Std F160 open front diff

• Std Active R200 (FC41 type) rear limited slip diff

• OS Giken 5 speed transmission (series 3 synchros)

• HKS GTR transmission oil 75w-120 GL-5

• 6.5kg Carbonetic flywheel

• ATS/Carbonetic 1350kg carbon triple-plate clutch kit

• Nissan full push conversion kit w/ slave cylinder•

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

• Cusco brake master cylinder brace

• Brakewest ADR teflon/braided stainless brake lines

• Std Brembo four-piston callipers (Project mu pads)

• Std Brembo twin-piston callipers w/ Brembo pads

• Std Brembo ventilated rotors front and rear

• Std front and rear adjustable strut braces

• Urethane front upper control arm bushes

• JJR Aluminium rear suspension cradle bushes

• JIC front turnbuckle castor tension rods

• Ikeya front upper arm/link – 0 – 4 deg camber

• JIC rear upper arm/link – 0 – 3.3 deg camber

• Cusco adjustable front steering tension rod

• V spec GT-R coilover suspension

WHEELS AND TYRES

• Rays engineering Volk racing TE37 ’06 forged aluminium 18” x 9.5”JJ (12 offset).

Tyres fitted-Yokohama ADVAN V103- R18. 275/35 – 95Y

• Rays engineering carbon/aluminium centre caps

• Rays engineering hex wheel nuts- blue

INTERIOR

• Formula 1 tinted windows

• GT-R seat covers and genuine Skyline mats

• Omnitronics 1-5 min. turbo timer

• Omnitronics PG-3000 security/immobiliser

• Alpine CDA-9807 4 x 50w CD/MP3 head unit

• Nismo 320km/h white gauge dash cluster

• Autometer 2 1/16” white phantom boost gauge

• Autometer 2 1/16” single a-pillar gauge pod

• Impul racing brake and clutch pedal set

EXTERIOR

• Nismo R33 400R clear front indicators

• Nismo R33 N1 intercooler vents

• Nismo R33 N1 bonnet lip

• Nismo R33 N1 GT-R carbon fibre wing end caps

• Nismo R33 N1 carbon fibre rear wing blade

• Hella Xenon Cool Blue lights 2 x 12w, 2 x 55w, 2 x 55w (Plus 50)

• 35w/8000k H1 HID lighting

• Coloursheild polarising treatment to white duco

• Power FC DATALOGIT PC(USB)software

Power- 443kW at 7000rpm (595 bhp)

Boost- 19 psi (1.31 bar)

The above would probably be easier to drive in clubsprint but I really don't wanna take it near a track, stone chips ect.

Bad value for money on the R32, why ? Surely there must be a way to turn the R32 into a competitive open class car. Before the event I'd try and get CRD to look over the tune and get Whiteline to have a crack at a good suspension starting point. Surely the Tein mono flex will do the job for handling. What else to do specifically. I just wanna have a go and be resonably competitive for a true street car running the Yoko A050s.

Edited December 6, 2011 by BK

[levinboy]

443kw out of GT-SS turbos??

I think you could turn the 32 into a competitive package, just will require the work and money to do it

You will need to sort aero out also as that is now a massive factor in time attack

[Duncan]

Ben (W), are you telling me that all of the top runners were on commerically available tyres? I know what I saw. Even those on commercial tyres ran multiple sets at $2500+ per set on the weekend.

The bottom line is, superlap is an extremely expensive supersprint with regs that won't allow you to run anywhere else. So for anyone who knows what they are in for, go for it - it is a hell of a spectacle to see. The committment and creativity shown by the serious competitors is great to see.

But anyone who thinks it might be "worth giving a go", or "interesting to try"....either expect to be nowhere in the results, or be ready for disappointment. And huge bills for a once a year event.

Ben (the OP one), there are race events at hidden valley and mallala, if I were you I would go through the CAMS 3D (sports sedan) regulations, make any required mods including a proper roll cage, obtain a log book, and go racing. In terms of outright pace for sports sedans, you would probably be right up there in a local field. Given that you are ~1000klm from either track it would probably only be a few events each year anyway.

BTW good to hear there are more skylines in town now, when I lived up there, there was only 1 other....the SAU NT cruises were pretty shithouse.

[HKS26T]

Hi mate,

Cool list of goodies!

I would personally be looking at downsizing the turbo. Or if your Gtss are making over 400kw then i would be Using them! (most I got was 330kw with Nos)

Unless you decide to v-cam the motor and run on better fuel, it would be a nugget with the 280 degree camshafts in terms of response around corners where you would be spending alot of time in second and third gear around EC.

Driveline needs attention, my mate bent the flex plate on the same gearbox on day 1 of wtac this year which was a shame... He pushes 400kws. I would definately be looking at a rear diff as well for corner grip, front would be great but sump needs to come off.

Dry Sump? I'm not at that point yet and my car is in the high 30s instead I have chosen to have a spare bottom end. It's probably inevitable..... but loggin all ur vitals eg oil/fuel pressures afr's and maintaining the motor helps.

Now making your car turn and stop. Addressing suspension components so you can have full adjustment before going to a track helps and brakes will gain you as much time as outright power

Hope I haven't put you off ...but these suggestions should see you have fun on any track, you just need to decide what events you want to partake in and choose what tyres u want to run!

Cheers

Steve

[Marlin]

Ben (W), are you telling me that all of the top runners were on commerically available tyres? I know what I saw. Even those on commercial tyres ran multiple sets at $2500+ per set on the weekend.

The bottom line is, superlap is an extremely expensive supersprint with regs that won't allow you to run anywhere else. So for anyone who knows what they are in for, go for it - it is a hell of a spectacle to see. The committment and creativity shown by the serious competitors is great to see.

But anyone who thinks it might be "worth giving a go", or "interesting to try"....either expect to be nowhere in the results, or be ready for disappointment. And huge bills for a once a year event.

Ben (the OP one), there are race events at hidden valley and mallala, if I were you I would go through the CAMS 3D (sports sedan) regulations, make any required mods including a proper roll cage, obtain a log book, and go racing. In terms of outright pace for sports sedans, you would probably be right up there in a local field. Given that you are ~1000klm from either track it would probably only be a few events each year anyway.

BTW good to hear there are more skylines in town now, when I lived up there, there was only 1 other....the SAU NT cruises were pretty shithouse.

I can only speak from what I know, and I'm assuming you're referring to Advan 295 tyre.

There was a short supply given the tyres were literally transported straight from manufacture to Australia for the event. Conspiracy theorists like to think there was something special about them because they weren't available in Japan at the time. There wasn't, it was merely a brand new size in the range and was rushed out for the event.

Your dislike for the event is well documented. I have no aspirations to compete myself, but I think the spectacle is pretty awesome. labelling it an expensive sprint meet is a bit rich. I've yet to attend a sprint meet that has top level cars from around the world in attendance! lol

Calling Superlap a glorified sprint meet is akin to calling Wimbledon a fancy tennis match.

[Marlin]

Thought I'd start a new topic about wanting to do Superlap next year and need some input with making this happen with my R32 GTR. I was starting to drag this car but after destroying nearly every component of the car over the last 3 years I'd like to stop with the drag and try Superlap. After countless failures such as gearboxes, diffs and engine the car has changed config a few times but is currently modded like this:

ENGINE

• HKS V-band T51S turbo (Exhaust A/R 1.00)

• Single K+N air filter

• New 05U RB26 block

• Trust/Greddy 50mm external wastegate

• Tomei metal head gasket

• Highly modified head porting

• Crower billet steel conrods w/ rod bolts fully balanced

• CP 86.5mm forged pistons + rings balanced

• R33/R34 GTR crankshaft fully balanced

• Nitto competition oil pump

• Nismo N1 water pump

• Nismo 62 deg. thermostat

• Apexi 280 deg. 9.7/8.7mm lift IN + EX camshafts

• Tomei bronze valve guides and Tomei type-B valve springs

• Tomei 1.5mm head to block oil restrictor

• Trust 8 litre sump extension w/ baffles

• ARP head stud kit

• ARP main stud kit

• Apexi Power FC D-jetro ECU + FC commander

• Splitfire super direct ignition coilpacks

• HKS Twin power DLI ignition system

• NGK Iridium R5686 racing series 8 spark plugs – 0.8mm

• Trust alloy radiator air guide

• UAS top mount oil/air separator kit w/ secondary HKS catch can w/ K+N filter

• Trust drag tube and fin intercooler w/ HKS piping L x H x W - 620 x 300 x 102mm

• Trust/Grex oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 200 x 50mm

• Tomei metal throttle gaskets

• Tomei metal exhaust + intake manifold gaskets

• Gates racing kevlar timing belt

• 2 x Trust adjustable camshaft gears

• 6 x Sard/Denso 11mm 1000cc injectors – single spray

• SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator

• Trust twin entry fuel rail – 11mm

• 1 x Sard 280L/hr in-tank fuel pump

• 2 x Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pumps

• 3L aluminium surge tank w/ perspex enclosure

• Full 10mm braided fuel lines from pumps to rail

• Full silicone heater hose kit

• Silicone radiator hose kit

EXHAUST

• HKS 42.7mm stainless turbo manifold

• HKS 100 mm stainless dump/front pipe

• 2 x Trust 75mm stainless cat converter in paralell

• Trust 100mm mild steel cat back system

DRIVELINE

• Std open front diff

• Std R32 GTR rear limited slip diff

• OS Giken 5-speed synchro gearbox (std 5th) w/OS input

• Trust quick shift kit

• ATS/Carbonetic carbon triple plate clutch 1350kg and 6.5kg flywheel

• Nismo push clutch slave cylinder

• Nismo transmission mount

• APP stainless braided/teflon coated full clutch line

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

• Front Endless slotted and ventilated rotors

• Front - Std Nissan four-piston callipers w/EBC green pads

• Rear - Std Nissan twin-piston callipers w/Bendix pads

• Rear Std Nissan ventilated rotors

• Cusco Front and rear adjustable strut braces

• Whiteline Urethane front upper control arm bushes

• Whiteline Urethane rear suspension cradle bushes

• Tein front turnbuckle tension/caster rods

• Tein rear adjustable pillowball arms

• Tein type HA coilover suspension

WHEELS AND TYRES

Street

• Rays engineering Volk racing forged aluminium 18” x 10”JJ (+12 offset).Tyres Falken Ziex- R18. 265/35 – 95Y

INTERIOR

• Cusco Safety 21 6-point roll cage

• RCI 5-point racing harness (Dec/08)

• 2 x Bride racing bucket seats - Front

• Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge

• 60mm boost gauge

• 60mm exhaust temp gauge

• Autometer 5” monster tacho w/ shift light

• HKS EVC-3 boost controller

• Momo sports steering wheel

EXTERIOR

• External battery isolator

Engine output

BP ultimate 98 ron

Power- 523kW @ wheels with 1.8bar

1.3bar is about 440-450kw red lining at 8500rpm. I'll get some photos up in this thread soon.

About to go on the car is a PWR 42mm alloy radiator, Whiteline front+rear swaybars, Tein monoflex adjustable suspension with 7kg front+rear springs and a Sparco sprint V fixed racing seat.

Any suggestions on what else I'll need to think about on this car to make it reliable on the track

eg. do I really need to upgrade the front brakes from stock ?

I'd really like some input from regular track racers and people that have competed at Superlap already to give me the low down on making my car ready for the track. Cheers in advance.

Anywhere between a genuine 430 to 500AWKW is ample if the car it light enough.

I'll be suprised if its not cooking after a lap. You'll also need to do everything you can to try and fix the inbuilt issues with suspension geometry that an R32 has. The Ikea Formula catalogue is a basic start, but to have a truly fast cat you're talking custom. As in, starting from scratch. Off the shelp stuff will never cut it. It's designed for road cars and the ability to easily bolt-on.

And yes, it'll need brakes. If it really has that much grunt you'll maybe get half a lap before they're on fire

[zebra]

I want to see this car tear up EC's main straight!!

I cant add anymore on what has been said already

[R31Nismoid]

Oh sure you could. You could find stuff off the internet I'm sure.

You know the kinda stuff that is riddled with inaccuracy, false claims and accustations!

I can only speak from what I know, and I'm assuming you're referring to Advan 295 tyre.

There was a short supply given the tyres were literally transported straight from manufacture to Australia for the event. Conspiracy theorists like to think there was something special about them because they weren't available in Japan at the time. There wasn't, it was merely a brand new size in the range and was rushed out for the event.

Your dislike for the event is well documented. I have no aspirations to compete myself, but I think the spectacle is pretty awesome. labelling it an expensive sprint meet is a bit rich. I've yet to attend a sprint meet that has top level cars from around the world in attendance! lol

Calling Superlap a glorified sprint meet is akin to calling Wimbledon a fancy tennis match.

Well said. Love the idea of it, the idea behind it and the fact it brings the best of the best - to Australia.

Funnily enough this was straight from the CEO of Superlap:

The fact is that there were several Pro Teams using this “WTAC” special tyre. This tyre is a soft compound 295/30R18 A050 that was made due to passionate requests from many Aussie teams at last year’s WTAC. All PRO / OPEN class teams who were contactable were notified about the availability of 295/30R18 A050 back in April, however the devastating earthquake in Japan delayed the production of the tyre and Yokohama Japan were still producing the tyres when the vehicles left for Australia by sea meaning the 295/30R18s for the event had to be air freighted in by Yokohama Tyre Australia.

This also meant the Aussie teams had access to the product before the Japanese teams and were able to do pre-testing (however not many Aussie cars were actually finished at that time!). Both Scorch and Cyber used 295/30R18 A050 for the first time on Saturday. The tyres they brought over in the containers with the cars were all 265/35R18 A050 (Doubters can check their carnets). Pro Teams on the 295/30R18 A050 were CyberEvo, Tilton Interiors, Scorch Racing, Hi Octane R34, Mercury MS R35 and Pulse Racing

http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/lets-clear-up-some-controversy/

[R31Nismoid]

Any suggestions on what else I'll need to think about on this car to make it reliable on the track

eg. do I really need to upgrade the front brakes from stock ?

I'd really like some input from regular track racers and people that have competed at Superlap already to give me the low down on making my car ready for the track. Cheers in advance.

Well are you going to Superlap to win a specific class? Or at least compete in one? That would be a good of a starting point as any.

Also realistically 500rwkw, stock Brembo items with rotors isn't going to be pulling that up at all well.

More clamping force, more pad area, heat dispersal etc is what you really want.

Look at the normal circuit racers going 10/10s with 350-400rwkw generally get 2-4 laps out of sizeable brakes (356mm minimum). You want more power, yes for only for one lap, however absolute lap time is going to require the most you can get. Most being as per above force/area/heat etc.

[Roy]

The braking force of the std brakes is fine...especially if you run race compound pads The problem is they cant handle the heat. So you need to throw as big a rotor as you can under your rims. Get a caliper with a good size and range of pads and this is all about heat management. If you have massive amounts of aero and downforce then you can consider trying to increase the braking force and reducing stopping distances.

Its surprising to some with massive brake upgrades to rock up to a corner at the track and find that cars with well sorted std brakes and supension/tyres can actually outbrake them. So just work on absorbing and disspating the heat with your brake upgrade. You get shorter stopping distances with tyres and suspension that control the pitch of the car and suspension travel under braking loads. You dont shorten braking distances with brake upgrades

[R31Nismoid]

Well from my direct swap the 356mm 8-pot D2 kit with the crappy "street" pad, clamps much harder than stock Brembo's with dba5000/DS3000 combo! That could be the fact the Brems are 15years old, but i doubt just a seal kit would improve it "as much".

The difference is very noticeable under the foot either way. Although i wasn't talking about shortening braking distance, more being able to do it repeatedly.

[Roy]

I am 80% sure that if you put the same pad in your Brembos you would say the same thing. Pedal feel is all in the pad you use and the piston sizes. Which reminds me ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/385180-k-spot-d2-attkd-etc/

[R31Nismoid]

You might well be right, wish i had a china pad for the Brembo to try at the time.

(replied to other topic, more chat there )

[UWISSH!]

hold up, your making 443kw with ss turbos and a complete stock motor and single intank pump???? sure u didnt mean to write 343?

[R31Nismoid]

The first post had: HKS V-band T51S turbo (Exhaust A/R 1.00)

So... Not sure, 3rd post does have GT-SS

[fatz]

why upgrade the calipers an rotors?

supler lap is one hot lap

stockers with good pads would be farken perfect

weight f**k all compared to the big ones

second lap they will give up though