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OK - update but no real progress to report - only excuses.

As I didn't want to junk my recently rebuilt 2860-5 units, I've now sourced a pair of turbine covers from the states. Hopefully they'll get here early next week. Also ordered new ID2000 injectors and fancy billet fuel rail to match the 14mm injectors (good work Carlos from Millenium Motorsport by the way - great to see high quality Aussie engineering!).

Terbs are now off and new GTX units on next week. Agree it's gunna be a tight fit and will get Brad Stacey (WA motorsport guys will know this name well) onto the custom ally inlet and outlet piping the following week.

As per usual - behind schedule and way over budget.

Watch this space.

You wont get much better without a bigger A/R turbine housing; getting a bigger compressor wheel is not the issue it is the small exhaust side that causes problems especially if you want 500kW... using twin low mount internal wastegate turbochargers is the wrong way to make that power.

It's not about making a pretty number for me, it's about maximum area under the curve with a stock looking setup (Police are only getting worse and worse). I understand there's only so much the turbine wheel will flow, but looking around at others results there's so many figures all over the place, who's to say that turbine wont make a bit more power (albeit not a number starting with 5) unless someone tries it out :)

Sure an externally gated single will make the numbers easily enough, for me at least that just isn't the way to go which is why I'm so interested to see how Gav goes with this new setup.

Because the limitation is the size of the turbine housing.

You may be right - it amazes me I get that much flow through the pair of -5s I already have.

But.......I like a challenge and am a born sceptic until I try or see for myself.

I can imagine what people will day but I personally can't see how you can use 500 Kw in a street GTR , how fast do you intend to drive it ?

Your calls , I'm not into GTRs but if I was it'd be GTSSs for a nice streeter or 2530s for a laggier top endier one .

For the record JKavs original DP turbo use an external gate turbine housing and I can't remember what comp housing .

All the then Garrett production engineers at the time said if you altered the spec of a GT2860RS it wasn't a GT2860RS any more . I can understand using the Nissan style T04B compressor housing but not ANYTHING but a 0.86 AR turbine housing - in a single turbo application . In my book if you can't make this turbo/turbine housing work on an SR20DET then you've done something wrong .

And again as I've said in the past a GT2860RS is very very similar to a single type HKS spec Garrett "GT2530". All thats different is the compressor wheel and Garretts rather than HKSs T28 flanged GT28 turbine housing . Oh and Garretts originals used 0.86 turbine housings where HKSs use 0.64 turbine housings . The "S" in GT2860RS stands for altered spec to differentiate these from more normal spec GT2860Rs . They are a purely aftermarket unit unlike some GT2860/GT2860Rs which were std on SR20DETs . HKS did have Garrett make a mild GT BB turbo for SR20s and its basically a std BB GT2860R but with the better 76 trim NS111 turbine . Its cartridge number took me years to find and from memory is 446179-53 , its what you use when you drive an SR flat out and don't want exhaust heat/pressure to kill it .

A .

Thought I would share some of the "challenges".

Excuse the out of focus blurry iPhone pic, but this is how the new twins sit on the old Tomei manifolds:

med_gallery_705_63_151911.jpg

What is evident is that there is minimal room for the straight 3" inlets on the front and rear.

Front terb is very near the power steering pump:

med_gallery_705_63_115500.jpg

Plan to get around this problem is to remove the PS Pump centre section which is redundant anyway without the Hicas. We'll then cut down the drive shaft and machine the end to sit into the outer cover. This takes around 2" out of the PS pump and gives enough room hopefily for some intake piping:

med_gallery_705_63_36029.jpg

For the rear, the inlet is VERY close to the dump pipe drom the front terb. A combination of elongating some mounting holes and/or "massaging" the dump pipe will be enough. Anybody know the temperature rating for silicone hose joiners?

med_gallery_705_63_164309.jpg

Off the the ally pipe man this weekend so hopefully some progress to report next week.

Ceramic coat the manifolds, rear housing and dumps gav, it's worth it!

With my T04Z you could hold your hand right about the exhaust housing after thrashing, if you did that without the coating you would start smelling pork cooking :whistling:

Instead of silicon joiners maybe use the metal extension otomoto sell if possible

Couldn't find these on their website - got a link?

Ceramic coat the manifolds, rear housing and dumps gav, it's worth it!

With my T04Z you could hold your hand right about the exhaust housing after thrashing, if you did that without the coating you would start smelling pork cooking :whistling:

Who did you use for the coating?

Pic is 3rd last here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/389335-kkr-silicone-hoses-reduced/page__pid__6203511#entry6203511

Wiggins style clamps either side maybe?

Just had a thought, if you piss those manifolds off and are happy to start over, a set of manifolds with the inlet facing up about 45 degrees may be a good place to start. Intake piping wouldn't be as right, just a shame the dumps and front pipes wouldn't be as easy

Gav, The previous owner of my GTR used silicone couplers to fit disco potatoes. Seems to work ok, but the 90 degree coupler on the front turbo rubs the PS pump a little. You could also weld an elbow on the inlet. I plan on wrapping the dump pipes and front pipe to keep the heat down.

Where abouts did you get the turbine covers?

Edited by black bnr32

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