Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow. What an incredible read!

Now I'm thinking that my choice of -5s wasn't such a great idea.

Those Gtx's work wonders but I presume better match stokers rather than 2.6

Also nissan4life sensational driving.

Was that at QR?

Shame you sold the car would have loved to see it.

The boost got up to 33psi with the 478kw, but at the track that day I was winding it down to 27ish.

Don't worry about the -5's purchase, that's what i have used to put the GTX 2863 cores into. If you are 2.6L the GTX2860's will be a better fit.

Yeah mate that was at QR, cheers for the kind words on my driving, but I still got ways to go yet. I have been getting some practice driving an SR3 Radical of Paul Stokells, so that has been good.

The boost got up to 33psi with the 478kw, but at the track that day I was winding it down to 27ish.

Don't worry about the -5's purchase, that's what i have used to put the GTX 2863 cores into. If you are 2.6L the GTX2860's will be a better fit.

Yeah mate that was at QR, cheers for the kind words on my driving, but I still got ways to go yet. I have been getting some practice driving an SR3 Radical of Paul Stokells, so that has been good.

Thanks Simon, think I will have a look at the GTX2860'S

Yeah, I know Paul Stokell racing gives great opportunities for those are looking for it, good stuff.

I will be venturing up QR again very, very soon ;)

I would like to know how the front compressor housing works for RB26 :

Do we have to pick a RB skyline front housing, the chra gtx2860 and the -5 rear housing and it all bolt on ?

or does the Front housing is machined to the CHRA and bought like that ? Because I can't seems to find any shop selling gtx2860r with RB style ( only see it advertised on atp for the gtx2863)

I would like to know how the front compressor housing works for RB26 :

Do we have to pick a RB skyline front housing, the chra gtx2860 and the -5 rear housing and it all bolt on ?

or does the Front housing is machined to the CHRA and bought like that ? Because I can't seems to find any shop selling gtx2860r with RB style ( only see it advertised on atp for the gtx2863)

Yes, but compressor housing needs to be machined. I believe -5 comp housings should be used

Although I cannot confirm this, I don't think it would be long before Garrett Honeywell puts this on their marketing table and hopefully sells it RB style.

Not that hard for them to do really and the extra $$$ they will get for it as well

Okay, I got all excited, just to realise that theres like 600$ of machining involved. A little too rich for my blood then :S

It's a drop in the ocean considering it's one of the main parts directly influencing power delivery.
  • Like 1

It's a drop in the ocean considering it's one of the main parts directly influencing power delivery.

I will think about it, but still.. chra = 1200$ shipped x2. worn-out -5 ( maybe 300-400$ for both) + 2x actuator 80$ + 600 machining = 3500$ .might as well consider the efr8374 ( oops I dont want to open a can of worn! sorry)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...