Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol at this fool! You know absolutely nothing about me or what im capable of or who I work for. You've produced absolutely no evidence as there is no evidence its all hear say! Thats why you've done nothing but speculate results in this entire thread and why you are waiting to see other people spend their hard earnt on the turbos and see their results ya muppet! If ya so sure of yourself why not just get your turbos? When i asked you your claim to fame i got a fapstick reply? So whats your experience with cars & why should somebody believe Mr Skidmarkz over Mick_O?

Pretty sure theres quite a few guys who could vouch for my experience and knowledge in here. How many can vouch for you?

As for the graph you posted as proof that i didn't know SHIT. The owner of that car wished he just went a single a little birdy told me :)

I've never heard so much shit come from one human ever.

Your a f**king joke.

You clearly have an over inflated view of yourself.

I've countered all your shit talk comments with accuracy and all you got to say you simple f**k is ....aaahhhh...... yea your a f**k wit mate.

Please

High PSI and big tight bends in pipe work create heat, the tight pipe work will create a lot of heat.
EGT temps are crucial when you get up to this level, along with intake air temps, this all worked out alongside PSI all helps with heat and efficiency big-time :rolleyes:

  • Like 2

Great posts Simon! :)

You pretty much confirm what ive been trying to say about the limitations of the stock position/bolt on GTR turbos when you start looking for 450kw or more on twins the choking turbines cant cope :)

  • Like 1

Great posts Simon! :)

You pretty much confirm what ive been trying to say about the limitations of the stock position/bolt on GTR turbos when you start looking for 450kw or more on twins the choking turbines cant cope :)

Yeah choking it is definitely a term I would describe it as, I know Paul says this. I have always been against singles............until I hit 600hp ;) I would have loved to have kept it and done the development on it, it get's very interesting and challenging.

Lol you're a f**kwit mate simple! This isn't wasting space on the thread at all! People need more than just your opinion on here. Clearly yours is uneducated & now you've got nothing to argue you wanna get all "PM" on me!

Be sure to post your results and prove me wrong soon as you stop sitting on the fence and dreaming up what these "hybrid turbos" will do with all your theories!

Agreed!

Mr Skid = Fu#kwit

High PSI and big tight bends in pipe work create heat, the tight pipe work will create a lot of heat.

EGT temps are crucial when you get up to this level, along with intake air temps, this all worked out alongside PSI all helps with heat and efficiency big-time :rolleyes:

Most people dont' change their 3" cooler piping out anyway Of course to flow 700hp of air out of some of the singles you don't need 30PSI which probably helps just a tiny tad....

Will be interested in seeing how the 60's go as they won't be putting out as much power.

  • Like 1

Wonder if the piping factor contributes to the massive gains in zed world? I have full (2x, 1 for each turbo/bank) 2.5in piping and cooler in/out etc. The graph i posted the other day has custom 3in piping (x2). The perth zed also has custom piping which i think is 2.5in.

Micko is saying the "chocking turbines can't cope" and is restrictive, if that's the case it doesn't bother the z32 setup.

The heat Simons setup saw would definitely be contributed to the factory inlets on a RB.

Biggest exhaust in the world won't help with a smaller intake,

That's the reason race cars and bikes run there race class restrictor on the intake side.

Simon told me he also had a 3.5 exhaust which chokes the system at HIS power level generating unnecessary heat.

My Z32 had twin 3" straight through with big intakes.

Edited by mr skidz

Didn't bigmikespec say the same thing as Mick_o did about the turbine wheels, either at the start of this thread or piggaz build thread and get shut down?

It seems good, but you dont get exhaust housings when you buy a brand new one just like the rest of the GTX series. But you can re-use the standard housings from the GT range.

Plus, I still dont see how these turbochargers will be overall "better", when it is essentially a new compressor wheel that flows more with the same turbine housing and wheel. The problem with these turbochargers is the restrictive exhaust side when trying to squeeze the most out of them.

Yep.

If you wanted to run a max of 600whp on a RB28 which is a shit load for a street car, especially with 4 10" tyres AND STANDARD LOOKING ENGINE BAY!

If I were to use a GTX63 and put 27psi not 33psi like Simon did only the 27 through factory RB inlet pipes it would move more air than -5's at every point of the Rev range given the 3.5 millimetre larger compressor wheel (until such time the turbine wheel does get overwhelmed with gas it can't discharge quick enough)

which in this case won't be until 560+kw which I won't see nor do I wanna see.

Longevity and OEM looking engine bay and keeping rpms lower is my preferred engine setup.

It's not a race car it's a street car

*Hence the E85

*Higher comp

*Longer stroke

*Shorter duration exhaust cam

And sum other little tricks...

Doesn't seem a real advantage for the effort when -5s get pretty close to 600hp on e85 without all the possible negatives that people have mentioned. And the other point being that gtx tech really only outperform the GTs at higher boost levels so then again what's the point.

  • Like 2

*Making same power on less boost = advantage

* the negatives mentioned are are basically the inlet piping which people use at 33psi and i wouldn't have be nothing to do with the turbocharger itself we can't blame the turbo for factory RB inlets tho.

It does pretty good I think considering.

Edited by mr skidz

I have run RSs to 28psi on a 3.0 with factory pipe work ( except ARC cooler, Z32 AFMs and modded TT pipe ) with no issue, holds boost @28psi perfectly to shut off, but power starts to fall over from around 7k through to the 8500 redline, which I have put down to the exhaust wheel/housing

but the 3.0 moves alot more gases @8k then a 2.8 which obviously moves more then a 2.6

Which brings me to my next point, what is the restriction, the T28 wheel or the 0.64 housing ?

If it is indeed the wheel then the larger housing won't do a great deal of anything to help power or response

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
    • Cheers thanks for the help mate I’ll see how we go with that one 
×
×
  • Create New...