Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure where you got it doesn't include an exhaust housing?
Because it talks about the exhaust housing it comes with on there...


You're right, I skimmed through it and saw the image.
  • 5 months later...

Has anyone seen or heard of someone shoehorning a GTX 2860 into a -9 or -7 housing?  I have heard that it is possible but just haven't seen it done yet.  I think from memory you still need to use a -5 rear housing?

-5 rear is identical so it's best to use that.

Front wise -5 is to big and you'd need to use -9 from memory. Back a few pages are the gtx 2860s that I did but I used some weird stock turbo covers

-5 rear is identical so it's best to use that.

Front wise -5 is to big and you'd need to use -9 from memory. Back a few pages are the gtx 2860s that I did but I used some weird stock turbo covers

2 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

-5 rear is identical so it's best to use that.

Front wise -5 is to big and you'd need to use -9 from memory. Back a few pages are the gtx 2860s that I did but I used some weird stock turbo covers

Have you seen any power / dyno results from them?  I remember that you had them built but sold them on, trying to weigh up whether the extra hp over -9's is worth the $$$$

2rnv9lt.jpg

I posted this car earlier. It has since gone to a crank trigger and a few other tweaks. New engine so this is how it is for the first few hundred kms before cranking it up again.

 

Did this at 30psi previously. Still same GTX2863's

2lnz3aw.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 6 months later...
On 26.02.2015 at 4:01 PM, Meathead said:

I guess you could use the OEM comp hsg so sleeving is not required, In my humble opinion this would be a compromise so I just used some old HKS2530 hsgs which are T04B style (aka 5s) with an AR of 0.6

The OEM hsg. A/R is 0.42 and although from what I have read the A/R on the comp. side does not affect things too much unlike the hot side A/R which has a major affect on spool.

Using the OEM comp hsg might make it boost slighty earlier possibly hotter also. Just what I have read.

Anyway I prefer the HKS 2530/2510 gt2860r-5 housings of 0.6 A/R.

I just turned up 2 x 6061 aluminium alloy sleeves 60.00mm OD 42mm ID x 48mm long. Bored out housing to 59.94mm . heated the housing up with heat gun (measuring it to make sure its bigger than 60.00mm) , cooled the sleeves down in freezer then dropped sleeves in the housings. Once cooled machine the profile to suit . Interference fit is permanent like welding but no distortion. I put 2 scotch keys in as well although that was overkill but thats me. The important thing is the 0.06mm interference!. Best not to press it in cold either as it may gall.

Hope this helps some people out wanting to use GTX2860r CHRAs' with Skyline housings.

Keeping my fingers crossed they will be better than my 5s in every way.

post-113003-0-80180400-1424955391_thumb.jpg

post-113003-0-01685800-1424955402_thumb.jpg

post-113003-0-22950400-1424955406_thumb.jpg

thx for idea ) tuning my hks GT2510 to garrett GTX2860

1.jpg

2.jpg

 

Can anyone help me? is this map correct? 264cams 2.6

 

 

ee5yWlSyFBc.jpg

Edited by frakzz
  • 1 month later...

So I sold my -5's to a mate. Going on a z32 tt.

Gtx2860's are back on and setup with no boost leaks this time.

New engine and run in nicely. Still a 2.8 but nitto and crank trigger setup.

On bp 98 and 22psi goes pretty well. On e85 better again. Will get dyno tuned soon and hopefully run some more boost. She's spiking if I try to turn up gain. More work needed there.

Some custom intake pipes might get made up to replace the stock rubber ones. Running a mines front pipe with 89mm outlet, 100 cell cat and 89mm full exhaust. Not setup to dyno queen, but just haul in general :)

20171110_181533.jpg

You missed a few steps. it's normally people saying they don't work, the poster say I'm going to make it work, everyone saying ok good luck, the poster saying it didn't work, everyone else saying we told you so

  • Haha 1
37 minutes ago, The Mafia said:

not sure what drugs you guys are on, but GTX turbos will be much better than -5s. 

keen to see the results.

Every result posted has shown otherwise? 

Putting GTX compressor wheels into compressor housings they weren't designed to be in, along with turbines that dont have the flow to generate the revs needed for the extra boost required for a GTX wheel to "do its thing" will be much better will it?

Be happy to be proven wrong but history will repeat itself. 

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, The Mafia said:

not sure what drugs you guys are on, but GTX turbos will be much better than -5s. 

keen to see the results.

Post 137. One of many examples.

J.U.N.K!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...