Jump to content
SAU Community

New Garrett Gtx2860R / 2863R / 2867R


Gav

Recommended Posts

On a 2.6 you definitely need the right setup/method to be responsive :)

Daz has the right ingredients and method heheh!

By the way Daz I wasn't trying to be a smart arse :) I had good results from GTX2860's with a stroker setup, stock cams and BP98, but went shit when I put in cams and got another tuner to tune the setup when I headed north...

love to see the dyno plot as there's nobody who has shown one yet for these turbos.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Why so many questions on my set up RP are the sickest bro :)

I understand you made shit numbers and I'm guessing that's why you won't disclose your numbers?

We're all here to elevate performance of our cars in a collaborative n helpful way.

At least I thought that's what it was all about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 z32's been on the dyno in the last week. 1 with gtx2863's made 565.7rwkw @ 30psi (450+kw by 4500rpm). It actually mades 565kw at 5800rpm.

The other has gtx2867's. It made 770rwhp @ 32psi. Laggier tho as it had no vtc.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 z32's been on the dyno in the last week. 1 with gtx2863's made 565.7rwkw @ 30psi (450+kw by 4500rpm). It actually mades 565kw at 5800rpm.

The other has gtx2867's. It made 770rwhp @ 32psi. Laggier tho as it had no vtc.

that's mega, I noticed Z32s respond well to the gtx 63s. thanks for sharing too
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not share your results?

he made over 400wkw on a built 2.6L on 2863's, prolly won't share because he blew his engine up.

I just wanted to know how it ramped up compared to Simon's 2.8L with same 2863's.

I'll soon find out tho :)

Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The VG30+GTX2863 combo is purely mental. I imagine however that most people would have a mental breakdown or two getting everything right with the build to get those great numbers though. Was the GTX2863 car yours mike?

Nah not mine Pete, one in Syd and one in Perth. The one in Syd has had a few hicups such as 2 snapped cams.

I am still on 98 but that will change soon. inb4e85cheat

j8dro8.jpg

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure it varies, the tighter the tolerance the better it will work, but too tight and it may rub once the bearing tolerance gets loose.

I would say .4mm would be ballpark. Hopefully someone with BB turbo machining experience pops up as I suspect you can go with less clearance with a BB core.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...