Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hokay,

lend my your ears eyes,

New car is down on compression on the number 5 jam pot, but I don't know why!?!?!?! it came up at 88psi when the rest were 150-160

The car has dodgy valve stem seals, so blows some smoke after idling for a while, but that is unrelated to the lack of compression. (or is it?)

I initially thought the rings were shot, but it doesn't blow smoke under load and the motor is very quiet, has very minimal blow-by and feels quite strong and smooth, idles smoothly yadda yadda yadda.

It is a dead stock 1JZ with a cat back, standard boost factory intercooler etc.

Now to my theory, is it at all possible that the leaky stem seals have gummed up the back of a valve which is causing it not to close/seal properly? I'm sure it is possible, but I have never seen/heard of it in person.

Now when my RB25 chewed up and spat out a ring, the smoke would increase with revs/load as well as showing obvious pulsing blow-by.

I'm going to try and borrow another comp tester and squirt some oil in the bore to double check (I didn't have anything handy this morning)

But like I said, no smoke under load, to me it doesnt make sense.

So I hope you can help too a) put my mind at ease and b) save me from having to buy a new motor

Cheers

A

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So, easiest way would be pressurize the cylinder and listen in both the intake manifold and the tail pipe for the hissing?

I would but my air compressor is at my old mans house 1100ks away lol

Titan - yeah, only smokes if its idling for a while, if you blip the throttle after idling you get a big puff of blue oily smoke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6139947
Share on other sites

smoke sounds like a turbo oil seal (early). a little leaks down the dump while off, then starts to burn out once hot. it can seal up under boost depending on where it is farked so no smoke then.

nfi on the compression.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6140059
Share on other sites

I had considered that, but it the smoke is too instant after starting cold, and I'll be f**ked if I am pulling 1J turbos off ever again! lol

I will pull the cooler piping off tomorrow and have a squiz, but 20 years of crank case gasses being sucked into the intake pipe means it will be oily

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6140068
Share on other sites

i was goin to say just before mine let go it would blow blue smoke on start up and miss a bit...then as it got warmer the smoke would disappear and the miss would go away as the rings sealed better

if urs isnt missing at start up then its not the same case as mine...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6140355
Share on other sites

Valve stem seals would explain the smoke / burning oil on start up,

the burning oil may have glazed the bores and your leaking compression past the compression rings, preventing a proper seal with the glazed bores, but your oil control rings are still sealing to explain why your not consistently burning oil

leak down test / wet comp test will help

May also be leaking passed the head gasket giving you low comp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6140375
Share on other sites

There is no use over-complicating the issue. It's practically a dead stock 1JZ....the likelihood of glazed bores is so remote, it is literally the last thing you would consider. That and the fact it would smoke all the time if that were the case.

You definitely need to do a leakdown test before you can make any assumptions. It could even be a worn valve guide causing the valve to seat incorrectly AND make the stem seals leak - also not likely on a single cylinder

Remember when you are doing the test to have it at TDC Comp on that cylinder

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6140650
Share on other sites

So the plot thickens.....

These are the same plugs that were a little oily the other day...cleaned them up and put them back in.

Pulled them out again today...

post-16947-0-92252700-1323313486_thumb.jpg

:unsure: looks a lot like rust to me

compare these to one from the Soarer

post-16947-0-43513000-1323313538_thumb.jpg

The orange plugs are BRK6EP's

cyl 1 on the left and 6 on the right

the plug from the soarer is a BKR6E

found my little high power torch so had a look down the plug holes, piston crowns are dry, and also have a slight brown/orange tinge, No sign of any oil in #5, they all match evenly.

So I am thinking that Duncan is correct in saying that it is a turbo seal, Causing my smokey exhaust

Doesnt explain the lack of comp in #5, but I may have muffed the test, there was a bit of crap around the #5 plug hole that may have caused the tester to leak >_<

The car doesnt seem to use any water, but I havent owned it long enough to say for sure, the oil is about 400ks old and looks brand new, so I think that if it was rings the oil would be a lot darker

????

Any more ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384934-ok-im-stumped/#findComment-6144324
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The GTT probably only has the same little bag of tools that the R32 had, which contained useless pliers, a spanner or two, a screwdriver thingo, and the handle and crank stuff for the jack.
    • ? 2s of searching finds this thread  
    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
×
×
  • Create New...