Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-87903-0-16591800-1323075306_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-88104400-1323075295_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-60164000-1323075278_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-52727800-1323075287_thumb.jpgpost-87903-0-60164000-1323075278_thumb.jpgHi There all,

New to posting but have been here reading avidly since Sept.

Have bought myself a R33 Series 1, and loving it to bits!!

it was stock, and have since put in a Just Jap 3inch cat back exhaust, running beautiful, no problems.

Then about 3 weeks ago decided to install a Just Jap FMIC Kit.

I read loads of guides, then got all the original piping out etc, all no problems. This is when the issues started.

Have installed all the piping, using all but 1 of the stock silicon joiners supplied (on the hot side of the intercooler 3" to 2.5" reducer).

Idle is FINE, however as soon as it gets to boost, it just chokes, like its cutting out...

I thought this was a boost leak at first, but have removed ALL the piping twice, and checked with soapy water for any boost leaks, NOTHING. all clamps are exceptionally tight, and rock solid from what i and 2 friends can tell (fairly experienced with this kind of thing).

Have a look at the video, and you will see the issues im having.

i havent touched anything else, just this intake work, and this is the head ache i have no.

Was hoping that someone would have had this issue / can help diagnose, cause im running out of ideas.

here is a list of things i have done.

  • Changed all intake piping.
  • custom built a mount for the front pipe so that i didn't need to trim the fan blade and also help the front pipe sit flush
  • checked all pipes, tightened all clamps
  • Disconnected the battery for a number of days (to reset ECU??)
  • checked connection to AFM (just wiggled and sh!t but all looks ok)
  • have tried pulling the vacuum feed i have used for the actuator doesn't make any difference - (have heard that should use a line on the intake, and i will, once i have diagnosed this problem, im not convinced it is causing any issues)

Thats about it, please let me know if you have any suggestions ideas.

Have also included a few photos to perhaps help...?

Matt

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Sounds like a massive leak to me the way its running, thats how it runs when youve blown a pipe out. If you want to do a proper leak test get a pcv end pipe and cut a hole and glue a compressor fitting onto it then take the afm off and stick that on and run compressed air through 15psi or whatever you want and listen for leaks, cant think of any other reason it would run like that since all youve done is put a cooler so all I can see it being is a leak somewhere or some hoses you forgot to plug in.

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Thanks for the comment.

Certainly no rags in the piping. been really careful everytime i take it out.

I havent touched any piping from the AFM back, just the intercooler piping.

one of those photos shows the AFM and the first part of the piping, looks stock to me.

funnily enough it might even be something to do with the AFM, its doesnt like going much about 2500..

would it be making those sounds now if it was in limp home mode?

from memory i have disconnected the airflow meter and it doesnt too anything to help or change the symptoms in the vid.

You're not going to be able to build any positive pressure at all in neutral anyway. If it's being rev limited @ 2500rpm then in all likelyhood the car is in limp home mode and I would be getting the error code from ECU, will confirm if it's the AFM or not, and if It is the AFM it could be something as simple as the solder joints in the AFM need to be resoldered.

Unless you man handled your AFM, it should be fine. They are fragile, yes, but cmon people run 20psi through these things with big turbos... That is alot of suction. Some people put them in the cooler pipe, that is alot of pressure on the components. Surely dropping it, disconnecting it or what not won't kill it. None the less it is a component which you need to confirm it either works or doesn't.

I thought most, if not all, skylines have the limp home mode if the AFM is f**ked.

How did you hook up the wastegate actuator? To control boost...

Hi, ive teed it off the BOV for now.

know its not good practice, but im convinced that isnt what is causing these issues... surely that would just mean i would be over boosting, which isnt what is happening here?

By the sounds of it i might have problems with the AFM ? ill try running the codes from a thread i found..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

reckon thats the best way forward? before jumping at buying a new AFM?

Cheers all for your help appreciate it.

Matt

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so.

Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500).

Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Possible curse on his car by a magic gypsy also?

Please think before you type. He didn't say it was splutering/dying after changing gear or lifting off but just on boost.

that sounds exactly like when the AFM is not connected or a faulty AFM, could be bad luck and you might have bumped the AFM and it died, best to go borrow one from the forum members

Are you sure the series 1 ecu has limp home mode??

Yeah, i have an s1 and it goes into limp with the afm disconnected (forgot to reconnect once)

ok great. I'll check it tonight hopefully.

Our of interest does it jump straight out of that mode once It was plugged back in?

Or did you need to reset the ecu?

Cheers for the help all

So thought I would post a quick update

Ran the codes tonight and came up with AFM code

Then got my multi meter and checked the voltage on the plug.... nothing.

So restripped and housed the plug.?? Perfect.

It must have broken or come loose when I took the airbox out..

Thanks so much for all your help guys.. was awesome to narrow the issue down

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
×
×
  • Create New...