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I think... in the US, Silvermax is the equivalent of BC Racing, i.e. cheap Taiwanese built suspension that gets turned for "local" conditions. Back in the day in Australia, you could get MCA street for about $1300 and they were awesome. Don't know about now... In saying that, my real world TEIN experience: I got some street basis z for my old Liberty (BR9), and they were awesome ($800-odd delivered from demon-tweeks in the UK). so Don't discount TEIN -
yeah my RedBull X2010 on Grand Valley is only good enough for bronze... I can't hit silver arrgh.
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100% this. Long ago, I had a guy from the R31 club who set my BNR32 up (adjustable arms all round). He did an awesome job, was an after-work kinda thing where I had to bring a slab of beer. My car never drove better, and I stupidly got a random tyre shop to check the toe angles when I changed tyres, and they ruined the alignment. tl:dr- it takes a lot of skill to set up your car lowered from factory properly, and is worth paying the $200+ it takes.
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My bad. I wrote it incorrectly. I meant to say "after dumping a bottle of oil flush into the engine"
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@Duncan a meter will read continuity, so long as resistance is below a certain threshold. For example, on a headlight globe, you'll probably manage to get your MM to beep for continuity. I always go with measuring resistance. I've had some digital Multimeters beep continuity even with a 100ohm load. Now as for that wire that should be undamaged earthing out... I really really don't want to say it, as I hope it's not the case... Do you happen to have any evidence of mice/rats around?
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