Jump to content
SAU Community

Pro Fabrications - Pfre - Fabrication

Risking

By Risking,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

Im releasing a new product next week as well.

The first ones have now been fabricated and fitted with excellent feedback.

Offereing a new sealed & vented light weight alloy battery box.

They have a hinged, securable lid with a substanciable base plate to bolt down to the vehicle. Cable glads to seal around the battery cable and prevent chaffing. Built in battery retaining clamps.

Perfect for guys looking for something thats more appealing than the old school plastic battery box that still vents into the cabin and looks rather ugly in the boot next to their fuel system or dry sump setup.

Pics of this asap been looking for somthing like this...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 635
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Nee-san
Nee-san

I welded an aluminium ruler to a cup once. And that's where my boilermaking career ended.

Daleo
Daleo

But in your build list there are clearly parts that you BOUGHT! Shouldn't you have set up a factory with multi-axis milling machines, lathes, chroming and anodising facilities and made you OWN coilo

No Crust Racing
No Crust Racing

Helpful posts, 2 thumbs up, would read again.

Posted Images

wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted

Perhaps if they suit the newer AGM and Lithium batteries, I think you might be onto a winner. The plastic battery boxes are to freaken large for these new little batteries!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They are fabricated to suit any size battery you nominate

The majority of my customers are now using lithium batteries which are incredibly small and as you say battery boxes haven't changed for the last 100years they are still huge eye sores in the boot or back seat

Link to comment
Share on other sites
UWISSH! Grand Master

UWISSH!

Posted
Posted

On average a basic half starts at $660 and can go up to $1300.

A full cage starts at $2400 and can go a high as you like.

Most full cages people opt for a few extra bars over a basic cage and they end up spending around $3000.

The majority of half cages end up around the $990 mark once you add things like harness bar, double diagonals etc.

im looking into the main hoop with the 2 bars back to the rear struts, a bar going straight across in between the rear struts and a diagonal from drivers side back across to passenger rear strut.

what would that cost?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

$880 for the cage in 4130 and an additional $3800 for the FEA simulation and FIA homologation which you won't obtain being a half cage.

The only way to do a 4130 cage which doesn't require FEA and FIA homologation is to have a cams recognized builder (of which I am) submit an additional dossier outling the reason for 4130, detailed CAD drawings and bar locations. ( dossier is not accessible by just anyone from cams)

CAMS will only issue a certification number if the tube

specified still meets shedule J requirements.

4130 is the same weight as CDS. The only reason 4130 cages are considered lighter is due to the reduced wall thickness required to obtain the same strength.

A "CAMS" approved 4130 cage will be same weight as a CDS cage only 3 times stronger.

An FIA homologated cams recognized 4130 cage will be 12-20% lighter than a CDS cage and usually the same strength in most tests.

CAMS charge me an additional $160 for the dossier each time I submit one for a material variance (4130 as opposed to shedule j materials)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have FIA homologation papers for a fair few full cages now (I usually go halves in the homologation cost with the owner for the first cage design and I keep/own the papers afterwards)

However it's never been worth even trying to obtain FIA homologation for a half cage, I've almost ceased doing half cages myself as the demand for comprehensive full cages has been so high as of late.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Sorry to keep bugging you Brad, I know you're busy, but I'm getting quite desperate with my catch can situation as I don't want to get back out on the track until I've sorted it out. If you could reply to my PM or email as soon as you have a chance I'd be hugely appreciative. Alternatively I could take it to my local alloy fabricator, but I hate to take the chance that they ruin it.

Thanks again mate,

Martin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have you got it marked out ready to go Martin??

If so get it over to me this week and I'll have it done the same day it arrives.

Yeh mate, it's all been marked out, ready to go. I'll send it off express on Tuesday when the post office opens up again, so should arrive Wednesday?? What address should I send it to?

PM replied by the way thumbsup.gif

*EDIT* Scratch that, just calculated express postage to be about $100 each way. Will have to be standard postage then.

Edited by Hanaldo
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

The majority of my customers are now using lithium batteries which are incredibly small and as you say battery boxes haven't changed for the last 100years they are still huge eye sores in the boot or back seat

The lithium batteries are pretty awesome, but for a road/efi track car you really need the expensive ones which are around $1100. The cheaper ones are perfect for carby race cars that don't have electric ignition systems, headlights, electric thermo fans etc. I cant justify that sort of money so was a little gutted to throw the basic, ie heavy dry cell battery back into my car >_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do agree Troy.

Ive managed to source some slightly cheaper alternatives but they still reach to the $750 mark for an Li battery. Most of the guys who are chasing serious weight lose in race cars are going for them.

Alot of guys with road goings cars that arent as full on tend to use the smaller drycell batterys which obviously work fine just heavier.

Ill give you a call tommorrow about your car and collecting it too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nick you should have an email.

Couple of photos of the Battery box that was installed last week. Poor quality photos but ill take a couple of the next one once its welded prior to being installed.

post-20349-0-01826000-1334010127_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-15943000-1334010136_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Beanie
      R34 GT-R Positive Battery Cable Routing

      By Beanie · Posted

      Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • cdenR32
      RB25DET S1 Into R32 GTS-T Assistance Required!!!

      By cdenR32 · Posted

      Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • username
      Passenger Door stuck R34 GTT

      By username · Posted

      Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 squeaking sound from passenger front area

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • GTSBoy
      Passenger Door stuck R34 GTT

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...