Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ryan.

I don't think I've taken photos of the undercar surges.

I have one that is R33 specific, r32 ones don't fit.

Door trims are not a problem either but I only make those to suit the vehicle installation included in the price. The doors require some modifications to fit them neatly on the R33 which I rather do myself.

Hey ryan.

I don't think I've taken photos of the undercar surges.

I have one that is R33 specific, r32 ones don't fit.

Door trims are not a problem either but I only make those to suit the vehicle installation included in the price. The doors require some modifications to fit them neatly on the R33 which I rather do myself.

Sounds the money I have some doors here I could drop down if that would work.

When you have five call me or pm me a price for each part, next year will be fine bud if you are enjoying your break.

Cheers

Yeah I run one under the car that looks stragely similar. It's the only sensible way to do it....why would you want fuel lines running around the boot, especically in a targa car where you might be throwing spare wheels/tools/etc around in there. Dirt cheap because you just run a standard or 040 or similar pump in the tank and an 044 or 023 under the car.

The only thing I forgot is you still run out of fuel with a surge tank if you empy the fuel tank :O. It made it much further without surging though

There is a few options for the under car surge tanks.

1x pump

2x pump

1x weldon pump (far better than running 3x 044's, better than 2x 044's as well but more expensive)

All types are offered with -6 or -8an inlet/outlet fittings or 5/16ths welded on barb fittings ( the most common way to do it)

Also if you want one you'll also need to determine how much of the fittings you want me to supply with it.

The weld on tank fittings are included

-12AN couplings, pump inlet and outlet fittings are extra.

Ive done a few R33's but never made a jig to reproduce the mounting tabs.

So ill need to borrow an R33 for a couple of days to mount a tank and jig it up for latter reproductions.

Sounds good I will give Neil a buz tomorrow, is Zebra's old car still lying around Brad?

I already have one new 044 that I was going to put in the boot so I will use that. I like Fatz tank and set up I would just want the same as his but with the clamp for the second allready welded on an a cap on the other outlet. I will need the fittings for the tank to the pump and the outlet of the pump to the hose fitting.

I am also keen to talk to you about some door stuff and a breather tank set up for 26 covers on my engine.

Cheers

We only need to be told once... :P

I've still got some shit to sort out on my car quickly first before it comes back anyway, I'll give you a ring after new year and we can work out when you want mine back.

Still need to mod my exhaust manifolds... Stupid freaking bunnings for not having the right dremel gear... :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...