Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have the car booked in to get the front windows on my coupe tinted.

All the rumors I've heard from people say you aren't supposed to wind the windows for a period until the glue on the tint sets properly. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm worried that the auto winding when you open and close the door might wreck it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385075-getting-coupe-windows-tinted/
Share on other sites

Have the car booked in to get the front windows on my coupe tinted.

All the rumors I've heard from people say you aren't supposed to wind the windows for a period until the glue on the tint sets properly. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm worried that the auto winding when you open and close the door might wreck it.

I don't think that will an issue. I got a friend who tinted his coupe windows at my house and it's just a tiny bit that goes up and down.

As long as it's done right (Maybe warranty?), it will be all right. :)

Edited by VNS 24

hey i got it done like 5months back.....if done properly, its no big deal.....u gotto make sure you tell the guys about this.....i had to assist while they did it becoz it was just one guy....so i had keep pressing the release button on the door to keep the window from doing down so the guy had time to get the tint on it...he then applied some heat at the bottom of the window to get it glued in faster......had no issue after that though.....as victor said try getting a tint which has got life time warranty...there are lots of places that do that.....cheers....

I had mine done by the guys at solartint and they user a big clip to hold the little sensor on the dor wall down so the window was up at all times, i left the car in the morning while i went to work and it was a sunny day so the guys had the car in the shop most of the day with the doors open allowing for the glue to dry with the windows up for over like 6 hours this was more than enough to set

the guy i spoke to said about 2 hours with a bit if heat and it wont move as long as you dont try to move or peal it. and generaly after 24 hours if it didnt budge its safe to say its stuck well

I got mine tinted, the guy just unscrewed the sensors and did the job, 2 hours later it was all done and it was able to go up and down, there were verryy slight bubbles down the bottom where its caught but they were gone within a few days.

  • 8 months later...

Hows driving at night with 35% tint? Anyone with issues seeing stuff out the window at night?

I'm thinking of getting mine tinted too. What would you guys recommend?

Edit: Also what is reasonable pricing for window tints on our car?

Edited by Marshan

Hows driving at night with 35% tint? Anyone with issues seeing stuff out the window at night?

I'm thinking of getting mine tinted too. What would you guys recommend?

Edit: Also what is reasonable pricing for window tints on our car?

i paid around $200 to get 35% by solartint. 35% is not that dark at all, night visibility will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
×
×
  • Create New...