Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have the car booked in to get the front windows on my coupe tinted.

All the rumors I've heard from people say you aren't supposed to wind the windows for a period until the glue on the tint sets properly. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm worried that the auto winding when you open and close the door might wreck it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385075-getting-coupe-windows-tinted/
Share on other sites

Have the car booked in to get the front windows on my coupe tinted.

All the rumors I've heard from people say you aren't supposed to wind the windows for a period until the glue on the tint sets properly. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm worried that the auto winding when you open and close the door might wreck it.

I don't think that will an issue. I got a friend who tinted his coupe windows at my house and it's just a tiny bit that goes up and down.

As long as it's done right (Maybe warranty?), it will be all right. :)

Edited by VNS 24

hey i got it done like 5months back.....if done properly, its no big deal.....u gotto make sure you tell the guys about this.....i had to assist while they did it becoz it was just one guy....so i had keep pressing the release button on the door to keep the window from doing down so the guy had time to get the tint on it...he then applied some heat at the bottom of the window to get it glued in faster......had no issue after that though.....as victor said try getting a tint which has got life time warranty...there are lots of places that do that.....cheers....

I had mine done by the guys at solartint and they user a big clip to hold the little sensor on the dor wall down so the window was up at all times, i left the car in the morning while i went to work and it was a sunny day so the guys had the car in the shop most of the day with the doors open allowing for the glue to dry with the windows up for over like 6 hours this was more than enough to set

the guy i spoke to said about 2 hours with a bit if heat and it wont move as long as you dont try to move or peal it. and generaly after 24 hours if it didnt budge its safe to say its stuck well

I got mine tinted, the guy just unscrewed the sensors and did the job, 2 hours later it was all done and it was able to go up and down, there were verryy slight bubbles down the bottom where its caught but they were gone within a few days.

  • 8 months later...

Hows driving at night with 35% tint? Anyone with issues seeing stuff out the window at night?

I'm thinking of getting mine tinted too. What would you guys recommend?

Edit: Also what is reasonable pricing for window tints on our car?

Edited by Marshan

Hows driving at night with 35% tint? Anyone with issues seeing stuff out the window at night?

I'm thinking of getting mine tinted too. What would you guys recommend?

Edit: Also what is reasonable pricing for window tints on our car?

i paid around $200 to get 35% by solartint. 35% is not that dark at all, night visibility will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...