Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is transient/part throttle response like though, not everyone spends all day at WOT,

I would bet my left nut the 2835 poo's all over the Hypergear stuff at normal street loads and rpm

So you mean cars with result that made less power on WOT all over the rev range should drive heaps better on street load? If that is the case then no one would be dumping money in R&D for better response and power delivery.

I can take you for a test drive if you are in Melbourne.

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I appears the Joey, myself and others that are running the 2835 seem to be getting ~280 @ about 18-20psi (just generalizing/average) where the HG units seem to need 20-22 to get those figures.

Cough Cough Trent showed me Joeyjoey's dyno using the same correction factor that he uses for Tao's dynos and it made 268rwkw. It only makes 280rwkw when you change the correction factor...

Plus Joeys result is full boost at 3500rpm, not 3200rpm like your dyno shows Dave.

When using the exact same dyno the SS1 on my car made 244rwkw and 20psi by 3200rpm. The SS1PU fits very closely to the SS1PU ~270kw and 3500rpm full boost and the SS2 very closely to the 3076 280-300rwkw and 3800rpm full boost.

huh???? are you saying my tuner is falsifying my dyno readouts as well...??? wtf

Hmmm cant remember saying that. Your setup has a few more mods too RIPS aftermarket plenum and ARC super induction box.

Midread sorry. So why does he change correction factors?

All on same dyno same correction etc

2835 made 277kw full boost 3200

Ss2 made 244kw 19psi

Ss1.5 made 259 19psi but didnt back it up. Ran 246 next

Atr43g3 made 232 kw 19psi maxed stock injectors at 6000rpm. This one feels strong as now with bigger injectors only road tuned but. Very curious to see what it makes

enough talk, overlay the dyno plots.... lets see which has more under the curve...

and not using some demo car thats been tweaked to get a curve.

Sounds good but back to back on the same dyno using the same correction factor etc.

So you mean cars with result that made less power on WOT all over the rev range should drive heaps better on street load? If that is the case then no one would be dumping money in R&D for better response and power delivery.

I can take you for a test drive if you are in Melbourne.

NO!

I am saying that WOT means very little on a street car,

a car that can make +ve inlet pressure at 20% throttle and 3000rpm is better than a car that needs 50% throttle to make +ve inlet pressure at 3000rpm etc

Midread sorry. So why does he change correction factors?

All on same dyno same correction etc

2835 made 277kw full boost 3200

Ss2 made 244kw 19psi

Ss1.5 made 259 19psi but didnt back it up. Ran 246 next

Atr43g3 made 232 kw 19psi maxed stock injectors at 6000rpm. This one feels strong as now with bigger injectors only road tuned but. Very curious to see what it makes

Well clearly the 3 Hypergear turbos have other issues that are holding the turbo back.

Dave's setup is pretty damn awesome, lots of additional parts and effort have gone into that car. Engine bay looks unreal.

Dont think its comparing apples with apples.

You have tuned 3 Hypergear turbos and Trent would have tuned 50+.

NO!

I am saying that WOT means very little on a street car,

a car that can make +ve inlet pressure at 20% throttle and 3000rpm is better than a car that needs 50% throttle to make +ve inlet pressure at 3000rpm etc

Which we dont have any measurements on so basically you are just guessing.

Well clearly the 3 Hypergear turbos have other issues that are holding the turbo back.

Dave's setup is pretty damn awesome, lots of additional parts and effort have gone into that car. Engine bay looks unreal.

Dont think its comparing apples with apples.

You have tuned 3 Hypergear turbos and Trent would have tuned 50+.

That is correct no doubt, it may just be the difference between dyno's but we cant back the numbers up thats all. The ss1.5 i installed and made sure everything was done correctly including the 3inch intake etc. Its nice to drive sounds wicked but just didnt quite have the top end he was hoping for.

I new it wouldn't take long for you to call bullsh1t Harey, my post in which you quoted says that the HG seems to need a little more boost to make the same figures that is all.

Personally I couldnt care less anymore if you think all of us "2835 fanboys" as you have called us before just like to get our tuners to play around with ramp rates blah blah blah so we can show a dyno graph that is more impressive than yours. That's just absurd.

You seem to be o e of the biggest HKS/Garrett haters on these forums.

Fact: the HG turbos are great bang for buck and stoa does great work.

Fact 2: hks turbos are also a great turbo but you pay for it

Fact 3: if you were to have some kind of race with bolting up the HG compared to the hks I can promise you the hks will be on and strapped up on the rollers while you are still working out what to do with you water lines and wondering why the dump is fouling on the air con drain.

Sorry man but this is just how it is, not trying to start a war.

Hmmm cant remember saying that. Your setup has a few more mods too RIPS aftermarket plenum and ARC super induction box.

Hang on a sec, your saying a front facing plenum and an aftermarket air intake is maybe allowing me to make more power... huh

there are heaps of thread on SAU saying these mods make no more power... so which is it???

Im not saying bullsh!t, I think they are fantastic turbo. I am just showing the other side and I dont think the difference is quite what a few of you make it out to be.

Fact 4 you will have to work for another month to pay off the additional hks pricetag :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If doing that ^, I'd take the idle up valve out and plug the hole in the pump.
    • You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.
    • Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
    • Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
    • Update:   smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir   fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)   steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)   anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result       going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?   would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?   or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
×
×
  • Create New...