Jump to content
SAU Community

Homebuilt Rb28 Gtr33


Recommended Posts

Thought id do some welsh plugs today, got the water gallery ones, they were in stock at the local Rip Every Poor Cnut Off store, but had to order in the 22mm oil gallery plugs so waiting on them for friday i hope. Gave the thing a new lick of paint too.

Fresh paint, its like a Dulux overhaul :P

post-35544-0-46326500-1325065038_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-88576700-1325065073_thumb.jpg

And the mains offered up and torqued down prior to me measuring the tunnel, It is slowly starting to come together!!

post-35544-0-46708600-1325065103_thumb.jpg

Just to change it up a bit, i got creative with the spray can today and grabbed the inlet manifold, cam covers and coil cover and gave them a lick of paint too. Good old wrinkle paint in black, never fails to look good.

post-35544-0-09887700-1325065132_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-48826200-1325065205_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-66240600-1325065227_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-80397800-1325065255_thumb.jpg

Here i was gapping rings, probably the most boring excercise known to man, besides shopping with the missus...

post-35544-0-84987400-1325065613_thumb.jpg

Thats about where im at at the moment, just waiting on brad at spool to send me a crankshaft and some conrods and ill be ready to start dummying and checking clearances on bearings, endplay, crankshaft straightness ect. Hopefully i will have the head back in the first few weeks of january and then its on the blower to PFRE for some under car surge tank and extended sump fabrication and i can start doing the final assembly :)

post-35544-0-28651500-1325065162_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully! I was looking into a power figure i want to reach, but it is getting scary with the mods and sods that are adding up. I was going to try for a tough streeter with the ability to go at the goat track we call Benaraby Raceway. Seriously thought about flogging off the T78 i have in my possesion and go for a Journal Bearing Precision turbo, but im still undecided as i have had the fun linear delivery of lowmount twins and now i want the "Kick to the nuts" delivery of a big healthy single to keep me interested in the car. Well, interested enough to keep perservering with it.

Cheers, Allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, got my power figure i want to reach. Mid 400 killerwasps on low, and i want to crack 500 killerwasps on high, Pump 98, thats all we have up here. I have been trying to find if the trust t78-33d's are capable of that, but havnt been able to find alot of info on it. Most of the results ive seen are all on E85 :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just put a ball bearing Precision 6262 on my car and have not regretted it one bit. Strong low down response and torque on a bog stock 2.6 so a built 2.8 would be rediculous. You should go the slightly bigger 6265 i think it is to get the mid 400's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome car man, it's going to be great when it's done.

But how did being a mechanic all those years ago teach you how to build something specific like a worked stroker rb26? :huh:

Just to change it up a bit, i got creative with the spray can today and grabbed the inlet manifold, cam covers and coil cover and gave them a lick of paint too. Good old wrinkle paint in black, never fails to look good.

post-35544-0-09887700-1325065132_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-48826200-1325065205_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-66240600-1325065227_thumb.jpg

post-35544-0-80397800-1325065255_thumb.jpg

Also, how did you get this effect? Did you have to bake the paint or did you just hit it with a wrinkle paint straight from the can?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its not hard to build. its just remembering or knowing little tricks and.clearances that arent readily available to me. as for the paint, its wrinkle in a can and a heat gun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i got the crank in, bearings all guaged up, and come up primo :) crank run out is spot on and the crank is straight as :) Measured at #4 main journal it was 0.005mm :) very happy with that result. The finish of the crankshaft is also good, i went over it with a fine tooth comb and couldnt fault it, bar the one niggling little thing, the oil pump drive. Its not machined into the crankshaft, its a collar on this crankshaft, but i can live with that. Also got out the scales and weighed the rods and dressed pistons, all which came up to within half a gram of each other so im also pleased about that. Now im off to dig out my internals and measure the conrod bush to pin clearances and the big end clearances :) If all comes up to within spec its time to clean and assemble the bottom end! Pictures will follow tomorrow morning when i wake up and get over the incoming hang over lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did round the.port.divider slightly kungpiw. i only ported the exhaust side after some online research revealed to me that the intake port design of these cylinder heads is actually quiet good. all i did was smooth out some imperfections and blend some small areas. for those interested, i weighed the two cranks and the standard crank come up at 20.21kg versus the stroker crank at 24.41kg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So....just hit a MAJOR snag. I was called by the machine shop and told to come and pick up my cylinder head. It was a pretty rude and abrupt phone call so i was worried, and with good reason. I got there and he went out the back, brought it all back in, in boxes and said "Our machinist has quit, we dont know where he was up to, he hasnt given us an installed height and we wont be completing this job, you owe us 585 dollars, pay it now or we will withold all of your items." I was not too impressed, so i have a head, half complete, half assed and nobody in this part of the world wants to go near it. I am pretty shattered. Anyone know anyone with a half decent turnaround time that would take on the job? It looks like it needs to have the installed hieght matched, needs reassembling(springs, retainers, stem seals, shims and buckets) and needs the cam clearances set. I'd do this but i dont have the equiptment to top the valves and do the height, and the shop usually assembles it as part of the deal anyway. Any help is appreciated

Cheers, Allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an rb in at Jacobsens engineering shop here in bundaberg, which one were you using?

They have done great work on the 803rwhp supra we built, accuracy was excellent and they did exactly as I asked and price was reasonable too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...