Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

GT35R turbo with .70 surge slot front housing. Ceramicoated .82 rear external gate off the housing. There is a 90 alloy bend welded to the turbo for intercooler piping so its good for a quick install.

Along with a ceramicoated 6BOOST manifold to match (RB25) Used for 2000kms.

$1500

Tomei 270 10.25mm Procams for RB25 with matching Tomei Type B valve springs (NEW)

Add $200 for an RB25DET head.

$1000

Volk GTP 17inch wheels wrapped in Federal RSR semi slicks.

$1000

All prices are firm and priced to sell. Pickup from Sydney or post at buyers cost.

post-32255-0-28137100-1323385951_thumb.jpg

post-32255-0-82955800-1323385994_thumb.jpg

post-32255-0-62947500-1323386044_thumb.jpg

post-32255-0-80734200-1323386073_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385280-performance-parts-priced-to-sell/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...