Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Geeeez it's obviously the coil packs. Just bite the bullet, buy some Splitfires, and enjoy some trouble free motoring for a few more years (or at least until something else breaks!)

Yep, I think you should just replace them. Even if you current issues aren't caused by coilpacks, they will eventually die, every RB25 Neo suffers this problem sooner or later, so you won't be wasting your money anyway, you'll just be acting proactively.

Mine broke down at 60-65 kkm, some may live up to 100 000. Started misfiring under boost, then at lighter loads, then sometimes even refused to fire at idle and obviously missed at cold starts (read bore wash). I changed plugs, that didn't help. Checked coilpack wiring - all good. I picked a set of used coils from my previous engine, used to have 25DE before engine swap, and replaced failing coil. That hepled until next coil started to fail - in less than 1000 km after the first one. Since then I replaced three more coils, and although everything's working fine now, I'm thinking about allocating some money to replace all coils with new ones, just haven't decided what to choose yet - splitfires or a set of new OEMs.

So what could be the issue?? Coilpacks?? I only just taped them- miss was there before- do the couls inside get stuffed??

Coil packs are a likely cause but not necessarily the only one. In my case we chased a similar issue for ages and it turned out to be a busted crank angle sensor (CAS) - ok at low revs but misfire & loss of power at top end. Have a read of this, it's got a bit of a checklist on what to look for:

Resolved Misfire In R34 Gtt - Rb25det Neo

It can certainly be sorted but can be a PITA as there are so many possible causes. Good luck.

Nah thanks Josh, Im selling my OEMs now lol, just ordered the YJs as they have a 2yr warranty and Oz based as opposed to splits bein Jap based and only 6 month warranty plus lot more expensive.. All products have hit n miss bad items btw and both the YJs and Splitfires have numerous happy customers and few dud items too..food for thought.

Got my YJ coils delivered at work today, geez it was only Sunday when I paid Paul from Performance Wise, he is such a top bloke to deal with!

Cant wait to put them on, will post back with results, hopefully it will solve my miss-fire and farting.:worship:

Same as my reply in the other 3409873 thread with this IDENTICAL problem.

Combination of bad spark from bad plugs or bad coils, or more boost meaning a 0.8mm gap is needed or too much boost on stock ecu/tune causing engine to run extra rich (9-10:1) which needs an even stronger spark than stock to avoid getting blown out.

So fix your plugs first, then your coils, then get a remap so you aren't running super dooper rich. One or most of these things will be needed to fix your problem.

So I just had a blast in my 34 after putting in my YJ coil packs yesterday- just SO happy with the difference it made! My previous miss-fire, farting n power loss has gone completely and car just PULLS so hard n clean all the way to redline, just so crisp n beautiful to drive, fat power n torque everywhere, no missing at all and gained a chunky midrange n total response, yes even a 'only 200rwkw' GTT is keeping us grinning for ages like pubescant teens..chirped tires a few times too while driving n turning gradually.. So if you need coil packs, just GO FOR IT, it makes a huge difference if your originals r shagged..

Ur right JEZ, just tossing up between the SS1PU and TD06SL2-20G 10cm housing, do u have good things to say about the Kando, hope u've tuned it past ur initial 9psi and now sliding all the way up your driveway! I'm just deciding if its possible to cut my bellmouth jjr dump n weld a v band adaptor in there as its a circle trying to mate with a bellmouth oval..

Here is an idea - buy a GTX2867 and put it into factory rear housing.

Should be nearly bolt-on installation, possibe to be done with internal wastegate, stealthy, no need to change dump pupe and will easily give you nice and snappy 260-280kw

I have done some calcs. This turbo is going to be great on nearly factory RB25. Tune it up to whatever limit you'll hit first, be it injectors or AFM, and replace limiting parts later.

Edited by Legionnaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...