Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

With decent modifications (HFCs, exhaust, Intake, Z-tube, Kinetix upper plenum, alloy radiator, oil cooler, bigger trans cooler, Apexi SAFCII, but no cams or port and polish) I have got my VQ35 up to 183rwkw ..... I would think you would be pushing shit uphill to get anywhere near that with a VQ25

For the both of you -

HKS Supercharger

The site lists your models, however I have no idea if it would actually fit. Only seen them done on VQ35de (350z / V35)

180kw from NA and your engine your dreaming. Go and buy a 350. Much more parts support, and will do that figure with a manual tranny and bolt ons.

That depends on a lot of things. I wouldn't blanket say it goes out the window.

I'd say if you have a shit tune, and are running 10psi into a stock with either method, and attending track days/drags/industrial park skids(ninja.gifjk) regularly THEN I would say reliability goes out the window.

Simple facts are, if you stick to a low boost level, drive sensibly, and pay close attention to servicing and cooling, then I don't think reliability is affected at all. Facts are that there are many FI cars rolling around with 30, 40, 50 thousand MILES (and even more in some cases) under their belts.

Oh, and I did figure that OP is on P's too. Which makes both suggestions of S/C or upgrade to a 350 useless rolleyes.gif

.... and attending track days/drags/industrial park skids(ninja.gifjk) regularly THEN I would say reliability goes out the window.

^^^ haha if you didn't want to do these things, then WHY woud you bother going FI :) ....

looking to get more power from the 2.5 VQ25DD Di engine. Aim is 180kw is this possible from a NA if so what do i do

Hi Mark,

If it were me, I'd just enjoy the car till you get off your P's (if that's the case) & then sell/trade for a vehicle that either has, or can easily obtain, your chosen power goal.

^^^ haha if you didn't want to do these things, then WHY woud you bother going FI :) ....

Cause frankly, the car isn't exactly a ball of fire. Not in 350z/V35 and its even worse in a barge ass Wagon! You can bolt whatever you want onto it, and argue about 3 or 8kw gains, but at the end of the day FI is the easiest (and cheapest in a way) way of getting some real power/torque out of these motors.

I want to do a track day or two to better my driving skills, but the car is a daily. Its not going to be track orientated, stripped or every be competitive in the scheme of things.

I am assuming he means 180KW at the flywheel, not at the wheels, which is close to VQ30DD territory. But to do that with a VQ25DD, you are looking at a 20% power increase, which is going to be difficult to do with NA and on an engine with very minimal 'bolt on' options available. Especially considering the DD engines have quite good power and torque figures for their capacities.

I'm just a bit over a year away from my fulls. I intend on keeping the car I have now and turbo it or get a stagea M35 turbo. But I would like to get as much power as I can out of the 2.5 V6 as I can

Also does anyone know if a 3.5V6 air intake till fit on the 2.5

Looks pretty much the same from a google search.

Go get a "z-tube" and a "powerduct" = power X 11ty Billion.

Whatever you do don't get a pod filter. Not even if you are desperate for lady friends with heckic mods.

Can make own powerduct too....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Result of another R35GTR build. Similar specs as above except this is running our bigger size SS-2 profile option. Made similar power except this car runs on Pump 98 fuel. Build specs are: Nissan R35 GTR 2015 model stock engine and box. ETS street intercooler boost logi intercooler piping with tial bov, boost logi turbo inlet pipe ID 1050 injector DW 300C fuel pump Decatted oem down pipe and y pipe& HKS exaust 3inch intake pipe Upgraded actautors HyperGear SS-2 high flow option Final result is 639whp / 477wkws hubs, Ron 93 / P98 fuel at 20psi.  
    • Duncan:- it affect both sides.  Driver side is worse.
    • That seems like a very special issue!  Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)  
    • MBS206:- The windows start to slowly open themselves. GTSBoy:- Battery is new since Dec. 
    • I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
×
×
  • Create New...