Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys.

Im after a bit of help in sourcing some 60mm (approx.) studs and nuts for my turbo manifold.

Basically have been told that the standard studs for the turbo flange are not long enough as my 35/40 has a spacer plate for clearance off engine and the nuts on it currently cant get a full lock.

Any ideas where I may be able to source some high tensile and also heat resistant studs from to suit the T3 flange.

Any help much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385388-exhaust-manifold-turbo-studs/
Share on other sites

Im doing a similar thing, but fitting a gtx3076 and i got some studs from a local nuts and bolts shop, heaps around

Have you checked if your manifold is warped? cause mine is and will have to be machined, thought i should mention it in case you put yours on and its leaking.

Thanks for replies.

What is MTQ?

Also im kinda chasing specific shop names or "nuts and bolts" places who do the special studs to cope with the heat etc.

It seems lazy and well I guess it kind of is :) Dont play with cars much anymore just drive them

going through the same thing as we speak,

Just spoke to a guy, Brad from Atomic performance 02 86655889 they have what you need...

MTQ don't have anything special, just standard bolts with a squash locking nut.. if its a pretty standard setup and doesn't see lots of heat should be ok tho.. otherwise try Atomic

The ones I got from MTQ are high tensile, highly heat resistant.

high tensile has nothing to do with heat resistance.

but like I said, if its not a track car and doesn't see prolonged crazy high temps they will be fine..:thumbsup:

Edited by tricstar

high tensile has nothing to do with heat resistance.

but like I said, if its not a track car and doesn't see prolonged crazy high temps they will be fine..:thumbsup:

+1

If you are changing them, you'd probably go the inconel ones regardless.

They are a bit more expensive but they will last the distance. It's not something you wanna do twice that's for sure

+1

If you are changing them, you'd probably go the inconel ones regardless.

They are a bit more expensive but they will last the distance. It's not something you wanna do twice that's for sure

I've just spent half an hour on google, with no joy, any idea where to get inconel bolts in australia ??

Thanks heaps for the info guys just wondering if anyone has got the studs of approx 60mm length?

Im just going off what I hae been told does this seem correct length im assuming factory is 40mm so makes sense.

Im looking for inconel bolts and lock nuts for my own 3071 spacer set up,iirc the studs need to be about 50 - 60 mm and the thread pitch is m10 x 1.5 I cannot seem to locate the studs anywhere, pm me if you know where I can source the studs as im tired of tightening the existing arp studs about once every few months

thanks in advance

Edited by aerofocker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...