Blitz Dual Sbc Spec S Issues

[GTSPWR]

Hi, I have just installed the above boost controller.

It workes fine in 'OFF' mode (Standard boost) and i can get throught the whole rev range of the car but as soon as i choose a aftermarket setting and hit anything above atmospheric pressure, the car coughs, the hicas light flashes and it feels like it dies. Switch it back to 'OFF' and it boosts no problem.

The boost is set using a range of 0 - 100. when i set it to 0. I can boost with no problems (as 0 is standard) but once you go up a touch, like to say 5, it doesnt like it.

(For the pressure signal to the controller, I tapped into the line that goes from the fuel press reg to the manifold.)

Any suggestions?

Edited December 11, 2011 by GTSPWR

[GTR260]

Dont use the line that goes to the fpr, big no no!

[GTSPWR]

which line should i use?

[boostn0199]

Just tee it in between the line from acruator to cooler pipe.

[GTSPWR]

Just tee it in between the line from acruator to cooler pipe.

Theres no line like that mate. Anyone else?

[tridentt150v]

Your wastegate actuator has a line to it, it has to. You generally put the controller in series with this line.

[GTSPWR]

Just to clear up. ive put the actuator between the turbo and wastegate. the line that i have ' t ' to the fuel press reg is a seperate line for the ebc. it tells the ebc the manifold press.

[Crans]

You should be completely fine t'ing off the fuel reg into a map sensor.

[GTSPWR]

My thoughts exactly. either wa iy i tried it 't'd where the standard gauge is connected to the manifold, and i get the same result. still dont understand why it wont boost past standard. additionally when i boost in off mode the standard gauge shows 6ish psi but the ebc shows .72 which would be closer to 10 psi???

[Crans]

Dont trust the standard gauge

[badhairdave]

where are you getting your power and earth from? I ask because hicas gives no shit about about a lot of things, boost pressure being one of them. However, if you're spliced into an earth trigger with a solenoid stuttering away giving an odd ball signal to the ecu......

Have you completely removed the factory boost control and blocked off any loose hoses?

[GTSPWR]

I have a solid earth and power.

is it true that u need to disconnect something? Theres no solenoid like on the 33s.

[SargeRX8]

The line between the FPR and the manifold is fine to use but the reason you DO NOT use it is because if that line pops off, or somehow you develop a leak to your boost sensor or something goes wrong with the boost sensor, you will loose pressure on your fuel rail and the engine will run lean and detonate.

There are many places. The best place is between the actuator and the hot pipe. From the manifold, you have the delay of pressure from the turbo to the throttle to the manifold. Between the actuator and the hotpipe is best because this is the pressure closest to the turbo so your boost controller can read the boost and control it as necessary. It might practically do jack shit but in my mind it feels like the closest point so to help prevent boost spike, get the source close and respond quick.

[GTSPWR]

So i went to a peformance joint and ive fitted the controller correctly.

The mechanic there said that i need a fuel cut defender as the R32 ECU is causing the issue.

[zebra]

On the topic(ish)

Anyone know how to change the display from kPa to kg/cm2?

none of the online manuals show how to do it

[boostn0199]

I dont think you can.

[Crans]

Get nistune installed or a simple chip installed

[GTSPWR]

In regards to R32 GTSTs, has anyone had to fit a fuel cut defender due to the ECU causing issues?

[Bsa]

Y not just nistune it then you don't have to worry about it

[Moodles2]

Spends alot of money on boost controller. Spend $0 on engine management. You may need to rethink priorities. Anything above 10psi the stock ECU will just go into R&R "Rich and Retard"