Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which one and how does it perform? How is it lasting?

I know you probably get what you pay for, but then on the other hand the space shuttle was built with parts made by the lowest bidders.:yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385489-whose-running-a-cheap-ebay-turbo/
Share on other sites

I had one which ran 15 lb for 2 years with about 6 trackday thrown at it, only reason it was swapped out for a TO4Z was it wouldn't run anymore than 18lb, it was still good when it came out and its now sitting in a parts bin at UNIGROUP.

It was making 260ish during this time on a 25.

Some are good, some are not I suppose.

I had one which ran 15 lb for 2 years with about 6 trackday thrown at it, only reason it was swapped out for a TO4Z was it wouldn't run anymore than 18lb, it was still good when it came out and its now sitting in a parts bin at UNIGROUP.

It was making 260ish during this time on a 25.

Some are good, some are not I suppose.

Like a lucky dip then? Sounds fun.:D

There is a whole thread devoted to Kando.

How much cheaper do you want things to be?

I dunno really. I'll have a look.

I can get my workshop to do me a 'hybrid' turbo which is basically the OEM housing but with a steel compressor wheel and an uprated journal bearing (I think), all very straight fwd but it is going to be an average performer, spool up averagely, run out of puff at 6k I reckon. I'll probably just do this but if there was something equally cheap but better might think about it. Other option is a proper Garret/HKS jobbie if I want to go down the route of spending more coin, then would probably rebuilt the engine tbh.

i recently got put my cheapoo in a month ago.. runs realyy nice.. only problem is the constant boost spike (goes to eg 18psi - and trails off to 15 or so.. ) but thats probly due to the crappy actuator that they stick in.. after the upgrade, i put iridium bkr6eix plugs, cleaned the afm, aac , intake piping,.. car runs smoooooooothhhhhhhh on 16-17 psi .. mines ecu definetly puts a good bang for ur buck!!

Ya get ya goods and ya bads, had an eBay T28 on a lancer and had no problems for lasting 120,000 k's, only reason I removed it as i thought it was getting smokey, but turned out it wasent the turbo.. Rather the motor :|

But then on the other hand my mate had an eBay T70 on his commodore ute.. He went through 2 in a week, then just bought a Garrett 35r, so being cheap sprung him nearly the price of 2 genuine turbos lol.

Just lucky really,

Mates running a t3/t4 eBay turbo and manifold... Hasn't had any problems yet and he is making 230ish rwkw on an auto VL.. I'd never take the risk running it on my Gtr though

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=350370167273

Mind u I bought my 83/75 Borg Warner brand new from the states for 950 bucks plus delivery

i recently got put my cheapoo in a month ago.. runs realyy nice.. only problem is the constant boost spike (goes to eg 18psi - and trails off to 15 or so.. ) but thats probly due to the crappy actuator that they stick in.. after the upgrade, i put iridium bkr6eix plugs, cleaned the afm, aac , intake piping,.. car runs smoooooooothhhhhhhh on 16-17 psi .. mines ecu definetly puts a good bang for ur buck!!

Have u pulled ur actuator apart? My mates didi the same thing then we pulled it apart to find it had some silicon shit all over the diaphram

Is it actuator or external gate?

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...