Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In terms of looks, can most people actually notice the difference between the original TE37s and the SL versions? Also, any shop available in VIC to purchase repair sticker kits? OTR has them for like $160 picked up - that's nearly $45 a sticker which is too much. Anyone know where I can get good quality replicas made/

Cheers

In terms of looks, can most people actually notice the difference between the original TE37s and the SL versions? Also, any shop available in VIC to purchase repair sticker kits? OTR has them for like $160 picked up - that's nearly $45 a sticker which is too much. Anyone know where I can get good quality replicas made/

Cheers

If you actually have TEs, of any kind, you cant complain about paying for replacement stickers

If you actually have TEs, of any kind, you cant complain about paying for replacement stickers

Yeah true, but Ray's are really strict on selling replacement TE34SL stickers. They only sell one per customer per proof of damaged rim with authentic serials.

kevin it appears you are more concerned about others peoples opinions rather than your own.

Wheels are not that big of a decision

My advice is

stop worrying about if you can get stickers that dont belong on certain rims in the first place

Pick wheels you like, an put on the stickers that BELONG to them.

An of all wheels TE37's would be the easiest wheel to buy for a r33 gtr. Do a search you will get a million results of different setups

I struggle to see the complexity, because there aint any

Yeah true, but Ray's are really strict on selling replacement TE34SL stickers. They only sell one per customer per proof of damaged rim with authentic serials.

why is this surpising? with all the posers these days.....

why is this surpising? with all the posers these days.....

What? People put genuine Volk stickers on other rims? Like why? It's like me putting HSV stickers on my Rays rims.

However, I do have an idea of putting Nismo stickers on my TE37s. :-)

kevin it appears you are more concerned about others peoples opinions rather than your own.

Wheels are not that big of a decision

My advice is

stop worrying about if you can get stickers that dont belong on certain rims in the first place

Pick wheels you like, an put on the stickers that BELONG to them.

An of all wheels TE37's would be the easiest wheel to buy for a r33 gtr. Do a search you will get a million results of different setups

I struggle to see the complexity, because there aint any

Thanks bro...I already have a set of TE37SL's on order but they won't come with stickers as I'm getting these cheap so am just wondering which stickers to put on them now. ha ha ha

Not a big fan of the TE37SL stickers.

thats your 2 choices. SL stickers or none. Nismo stickers for nismo wheels IMO,

but at the end of the day its your wheels on your car. if you think it looks good, then go for it

thats your 2 choices. SL stickers or none. Nismo stickers for nismo wheels IMO,

but at the end of the day its your wheels on your car. if you think it looks good, then go for it

Thanks buddy.

  • 3 weeks later...

Bit of a dig, but has anyone put a set of 18" or 19" te37's on a r33 gtst? If so what offset and width rims did you have on the front and back and was there any guard work etc necessary to fit them? What size tires did you run with them?

Im looking at getting a set of them in black to go on my silver r33 gtst in a while, but i want to make sure I get the right sizing and offset so i can limit the amount of hassle with installing them. I would like to run federal 595's on them if possible...

Who thinks the TE37SL 'condom wrapper' sticker looks ugly as...I got a set coming but will either leave it off or put something else there. So ugly and chunky.

  • 3 weeks later...

Although these need to be on the right car, they are still one of my favourite rims, if only they came in a 19 x 10.5

These on a blk or mnp r33 would look nuts in a deep dish 19..

http://www.gruppe-s.com/images/wheels/advan/advan_super_advan_racing_version_2_528.jpg

C'mon advan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...