Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol woops knock the 1 of the front of that

lol

you mean the zero off the end..

origial ones were $22 to start with.

now gen 2 is $40 delivered

but if your one comes connected to an RB26 then fair enough. :D

you mean the zero off the end..

origial ones were $22 to start with.

now gen 2 is $40 delivered

but if your one comes connected to an RB26 then fair enough. :D

fark it

i'll just throw it at the next door neibours dog instead

lol

Pm sent re engine, haven't seen any cash yet

first in with full amount wins it

Injectors sold pending payment

plenty still left including roll cage, Blitz fibreglass bonnet, Wilwood brakes, intake kit, whole registerable shell, fuel pump and surge tank, gauges and more!!

Update of items still for sale, some prices reduced PLUS new pics added:

Rb26dett rebuilt long motor – Deposit taken

Wilwood 4 piston Superlight front brakes with Brembo 324mm drilled discs $1,300 Now $1,200

Includes three brand new sets of spare pads, bracket adapter kit and braided lines. Rotors and pads have plenty of meat left on them.

IMG_1050.jpg

R32 Gtr N1 turbos $1,000

R32 Gtr Garrett -5 turbos, done approx 15,000km $1,500

Wiring loom for R32 Gtst Rb26dett conversion $200

Intercooler 600x400x100mm and piping to suit Gtst $300

IMG_1103.jpg

Stock Rb26 BOVs and piping (BOV return pipe already sold) $200

Intake kit including copy Greddy pipe to intercooler, twin pod filters $400 $350

IMG_1024-1.jpg

5Zigen 3”stainless steel turbo back exhaust $250

IMG_1000.jpg

OBX manifolds $250

IMG_1056.jpg

Stock Rb26 front pipes $150

Stock Rb26 exhaust manifolds and dump pipes $40 each

Intank Gtst fuel pump $100

Fuel pressure regulator $100

IMG_1023-1.jpg

Fuel cooler $40

IMG_0955.jpg

Oil catch can 1L $50

IMG_1020.jpg

Turbotech manual boost controller $10

Bolt in 4 point roll cage $500

IMG_1008.jpg

Blitz R32 Gtr fibreglass bonnet $650 $600

Top condition with N1 lip and aero catches

IMG_0994.jpg

R32 Gtr rear wing $150

Has a couple of chips but otherwise good condition

IMG_1109.jpg

17 x 8 rims, no rubber $500 (see pics below)

4 Door 1993 R32 Gtst shell

IMG_0993-1.jpg

Non rolling, previously registered in Vic, suit track use $1000 or $1500 with bolt in roll cage. Shell is mostly stripped out except for dash and steering column. Does not include wheels, suspension, brakes, bonnet, wing, headlights. PM me for more details.

Stagea rear calipers and rotors $150 $100

Greddy strut brace front $150 $130

IMG_1058.jpg

Custom strut brace rear $120 $100

Nismo control link set, suits Gtst $500

IMG_10522.jpg

R32 passenger seat, good condition $100 $60

IMG_1010-1.jpg

SAAS Steering wheel (no boss kit) $100

SAAS gear knob $50

Tomei 300km dash $350

IMG_1143.jpg

IMG_1145.jpg

M's turbo timer $50

IMG_1142.jpg

Apexi 2” Power Meter gauge $80

IMG_0984.jpg

Apexi Multichecker (Engine check system) $300

New in box with certificate of authenticity, manual etc

IMG_0939.jpg

Speco meter tacho 2.5” $60

IMG_0983.jpg

Sold stuff:

Rb26 standard turbos rebuilt with steel wheels

R32 Gtr Power FC with hand controller

HKS split dump pipes

OBX tuned length front pipe

Walbro 305LPH external fuel pump and 4L surge tank incl braided lines and Speedflow fittings

Yellow jacket coil packs

Oil filter relocation kit and 30-row cooler, with Speedflow fittings

ASI 52mm dual core alloy radiator, Blitz cap, JC-project silicone pipes

MDU Gtst suspension

Bride drivers seat with super low rail

R34 Gtt factory steering wheel

Autometer Sport-comp 2.5" boost gauge

EBCR 2” exhaust gas temperature gauge

AEM wideband sensor gauge kit

Short shifter kit, brand new in box

550cc Siemen Denso Injectors, new O-rings, seals

Fark!

Typo above... exhaust is $200 cat back as the front pipe is already sold

Mate have you still got the wiring loom? I am putting a 26 in my R32 at the moment. I assume this will fit a 2 door OK? Best price for it delivered to 4174 and I'll take it off your hands this week.

Kirk 0414 236 724

Hey man. I'm keen on the exhaust but not sure if I can transport it. Would it be possible to get it shipped to Goulburn, 2580? OR I'd be willing to pay someone to bring it down. I need to get rid of the dirty exhaust that came with my car.

Mate have you still got the wiring loom? I am putting a 26 in my R32 at the moment. I assume this will fit a 2 door OK? Best price for it delivered to 4174 and I'll take it off your hands this week.

Kirk 0414 236 724

the loom with the head is sold

i have another loom you can have for 150+ shipping this out of a r32 but you will have to modify it

Hey man. I'm keen on the exhaust but not sure if I can transport it. Would it be possible to get it shipped to Goulburn, 2580? OR I'd be willing to pay someone to bring it down. I need to get rid of the dirty exhaust that came with my car.

can ship but i'll need to get a quote.... probably be around $100 maybe??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...