Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need to machine the head it above the litter bores

and yes you will need to get springs to suit (i got some if your interested, $180, they suit 10.5 lift not the 10.8 im running)

You will also most likely need to reset the valve clearances

You'll need springs, and an engine that is capable of making power above 9000rpm.

Do you have a need for cams that big?

serious ? are 270 that bad ? im pretty sure ive seen a few gt35 setups with hi lift 270's limited to 8k. ive also been in a t04z powered rb26 with 10.5 270's and was limited to 8.5k. made over 600hp at all 4's.

serious ? are 270 that bad ? im pretty sure ive seen a few gt35 setups with hi lift 270's limited to 8k. ive also been in a t04z powered rb26 with 10.5 270's and was limited to 8.5k. made over 600hp at all 4's.

The whole point is why are you getting 270s if you don't want to rev your car to 10k rpm. Are you just buying them because "cams are cool" and you have no idea why you even need them?

Don't buy parts for shits and giggles, figure out your goal and buy the appropriate parts to reach that goal. It is like going to uni and doing a degree then figuring out what kind of job you want, you have it all backwards!

serious ? are 270 that bad ? im pretty sure ive seen a few gt35 setups with hi lift 270's limited to 8k. ive also been in a t04z powered rb26 with 10.5 270's and was limited to 8.5k. made over 600hp at all 4's.

Sure am. What power they make has nothing to do with it. They could have been lag monsters with no torque mid and low.

You need to pick the cams that give you the fattest torque curve between where the turbo starts to come on hard, and your rev limiter. Well chosen Smaller cams will make it spool earlier too.

Bigger isn't always better.

Haha mate, we probably saved you a couple of thousand too.

At least someone on this forum listens to the advice given.

I've seen things as dumb as a gt3076 with a 0.63 rear housing, and then 270 cams fitted, and the owner telling me that I'm stupid and biggest cams are best...

In that situation, standards would have been better than 270s...

Anyway, glad to help.

Sure am. What power they make has nothing to do with it. They could have been lag monsters with no torque mid and low.

You need to pick the cams that give you the fattest torque curve between where the turbo starts to come on hard, and your rev limiter. Well chosen Smaller cams will make it spool earlier too.

Bigger isn't always better.

That is the worst combination I've ever heard, a turbo that doesn't flow well up top already coupled with cams that have extra overlap and need even more flow....

WHY

Haha mate, we probably saved you a couple of thousand too.

At least someone on this forum listens to the advice given.

I've seen things as dumb as a gt3076 with a 0.63 rear housing, and then 270 cams fitted, and the owner telling me that I'm stupid and biggest cams are best...

In that situation, standards would have been better than 270s...

Anyway, glad to help.

Put 280s in - they will give you 500rpm more response according to some people!

That is the worst combination I've ever heard, a turbo that doesn't flow well up top already coupled with cams that have extra overlap and need even more flow....

WHY

I feel your pain.. They seriously think its so much better.

Someone else I know put a set of 270s in a stock sr20 for a "tough idle"...

No tuner has been able to get it running right... Now he wants to sell the car...

Yeap, bigger is always better according to some of these uneducated fools..

You won't need new buckets, if its not broke don't fix it (I've used plenty of camtech/kelford tomei hks etc and ive never had any issue, i never replaced mine and i got the 10.8 lift)

yeah base circles position/thickness does change but the shape doesn't, due to the position changing you will need to at least check clearances, (in the older days the shape would vary and the lifters were machined to suit each lobes shape)

as mafia said, pick the cams based on their rev range i.e 2000rpm-6500rpm, this example means it will be a pig below 2000rpm

plus best to chose parts to suit the cars purpose and rev range it will mostly use, i.e 11.5mm 290° rated 4500rpm plus is probably only best for drag racing not daily driving as it won't make power until 4500

(my n/a 26/30 run 10.8mm 252°/262° @ 0.050" and that is a pig to drive but then the cams start to work between 2200 and 8200rpm :D they were rated 3000+ on a rb26 bottom end)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...